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Show TIIE SUNDAY EXAMINER: OGDEN, UTAH, SUNDAY MORNING, FEBRUARY 4, 1906, i$&5ssg ,V J' i ?V 7?a pwlchoech Iha tnd wTever' jJtotc Its Triumphs and Its Failmra Stout Linrns and Sheer Embroideries Contribute Their Charms Shirtwaist Designs The Dutch Neck and the Short Sleeve High Collars and Long Sleeves on Imported Models A Riot of Handwork Lace and Embroidery Mingle in Gever Designs. y Tki rtovlif T lingerie Uimi at tha mart shops la eometklni ta make Ika ha- pectiubnis woman iwiIh I, lnwai skilled la tha ait af aeedl-cmluataatar. If aba cannot possibly psrebara tha ruapba that ara apnri bar, aad par tba high price lihaut a regretful thought forthamaora an spout ; tbra, at laaat, aba cam farabaaa tba aiM or aimllar material aad evolve for krraclf duplicates af tbaaa faactoatlag things, aad tor fraction at tbalr rata 11 prlis tow everal of tba taatrapalltaa (telly papers Sara lately eaa talaad aaaaaaiwaeBta that sewing rlaaara ara lb coana af formation, ad that far tba prira af aabarrlptloa meiabata will ba Inatraatad la tha making af lingerie blauara. faaey neckwear, earaat rovers aad aarb tblaga daar ta tha femla la heart. tha nttbf aad IMlBg af tboaa aereaaarlra at tba wardrobe babe dan bj esparto. A toohda at aaa at thaaa alaba aa a Saturday morning dladaaad a large a umber af aaeaadlaalr adl draaaad girl aad women, all tha war IM M ta fid each aaa hnallr aawlaf at ba wart as thaasb bar braad aad iutaar dapaadad aa M. dad tba abaaa aad filmy matortsla ngeo arbleb tbay wwrhidl laat aaa bat at (ba aatartala woald aaaraa mam tha Ignorant TlaWaa that thfa warn aa claia making guoMatg lot toe kaara aa tka foreign fcaathw, Mbs at reach aalammk aad hottae tba inal at baadbaashtef Ikiaan tha faaal at TUas clanaaa aad Claay leas tbaaa ara whal tba woman arba kaowa la pq(Hjy his tbiaa dalaty btoaaaa that aha will a bna iba aathdbatlaa mt r lying that aba baa am da thaa way atltah Tba Moaaa that battaaa la tka till raicaa (ha whaa (ha it typa la aadar orasiflsrattoa. That tba aaa (roata tbaa left free far aacb alabara-tloaa may ha daddad upon la tba raal raaaoa, tba traa lawatdaam ad (hla ad Tbaaa la amply aa aad to (ba dm nlgM offered) aad aara tha wort la byo H ta lataraatlag U aaa fata haw tar aaa raa gat away from tba atytaa and methods that tba raady-madbtoaaaa dtaptay. day tearh af orlg toallty ahowa ap ta tha maat drllshtfai advantapa whara tha blaaaa la coararaad. aad ovevy stltah takaa ta Ita alaboratioa aaa ba mada to pradara a (all. In affect (That waadar la It that with tha appraaah af Laat aacb aad awry aaa at thaaa aubarrlpttoa sowing-rlaaarannoaaora a fall Hat; but a vacancy ta ba had for tha lata comer, Thera la ovtdoat a ret ara to tha plala aad aeraraly tailored ablitwtost, tha ara that gara brat with tallor-mad-a coat aad ktrt eostuma, Oh maker la Maw Yarkand hla aaiaa amma la ba kaowa fma tha Atlantic to She TactSe eoaat and back announces that rrally fwhlooabla Interaat la thta dam af ahlrtwalnt kaa aeear waned that hla workraama hara baea plcataoimly patraalaad, aad that, while tha alyla la thle garment baa varied hardly preepHlilyalnre Ita Introdactlna, ft ' afbd r f aftar-ward- hrakt a ee-tla- a a sId It boa, nonetheless, gouo caluny aa Ita trlampbaat way, invplcd by tha brat auhiiig a alrlia for Itself la rack wall rag ! tad waidraha that alw ara Id paaaUdy AIL at. Jaot tha uaa, thta very awbar baa partapa tha hlghsstprlrod Maa af llacacla Moaara at be this, haadkaraklaf It aaa, aaft Pmach nainsook, aad araa la tha ailkea -- waaew thta aaa atyta may ba faaad la hta ahop at prlam that waald make tba akitttatad stars, Oaa vary flavor medal )nt racaotly la tradacad aiakra aaa af tha aatrmaaly mad-bbolara la a vary fetching fashion. There ta a wit at ptactraa at tachlag, tha tacha running tong th wise, aad rack of them haadraa, Thaa there la a ronadad bolara at bradada ingtatea, ar English ay work, applied aa thta plaatraa, tha dat aaa whara tha two pda being eararad with a tafllas af Barrow Valeaeionmes, tha raal hand made web, at coaraa. Tba little aqnare Patch aacb that waa tatmdaead tact surname ta etpectad to hara quite aa nthnalaatlc laalng la tha new waist. Far tha yoathfal thta ta. a charm Ibg dartre, ana wharala a pretty threat ta nem to delightful advantage; aad pnaaeuuiag tha added merit at aaotaaaa la warm weather beside, d tnaah h aanally glraa la tha raflle af Talaadaaaaa. ar aoma other aarrow aad pretty tare, that ta raa all area ad tha spaaing, amklng a dalaty flefcih. Whara tha Dutrh neck la not followed, then too collar, while rnol aad transparent. ta likely ta ba qnlta high. Some af h a-t- d. aoft-aalb- g at Praaah hand made wtteti hara llttla taka that stand np i tha hark agataat too hair, a moda that ta ratted only ta a high dressing of tha ralffara. e d la bound la prove aomawhat whaa a low draaoliig ta followed, area thaagh a hairnet ba worn. Tha abort elbow cleave and aom a af Mia mote atpaoalve niodala have tha arm covering ao abhravtatad tk it It never reaches tka ragtoa at tha elbow at all la making a part art furara for Itralf. It Sta In wall with tha fad far ahort eleevec ta erata and wraps, and with tha long gloves, that da add mora than a llttla to tha madlchaaa of oaa'a appearance. But when the rammer daya coma, with their opr race tvo heat, tha modish women will turn to too long steered andonMadly blsose, for area fahrle glovea ara bound to cling all too doaely ta tba flesh In summer weather, and tha long and daintily flatahad lingerie aleava will lank all too prettier whra viewed from beneath tha abort oloovo ot tha linen coat let raa aad embroideries, both of the amchtao-saadpercussion, ara vary cleverly need after savers! dlffareat methods, aod with reliant rraolto In pretty nearly every laataaca. Ona modal baa them need la attenate strips, with a narrow to plara them together. Tha yoke kaa them meeting In a V la tha middle, tha blouse being jeleed la lengthwise tripa to tha adga of tbla yoke, which a wavy line that dose mtvh to brrak ap tha abrupt lino which tha uaa of a yoke all tea often entalla. Jby VMAT DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIONS Mcem-fortabi- The Batch Mock and (ha Itsvs, o n Permissible-Coiffu- re The nsual order of things ta reversed In thta effective llttla b loose, for tbo broad piece of Imitation Irish crochet, la pi sea of forming tbo yoke, aa la naually done, ta mada to fill In tba spare between tha bust and tba waistline. Tba top of tha blouse, a It ng t her of lengthwise tucking, and la ptaldcB with a guipure embroidery In taca design. To this tha lace ta applied, tba fullness of tha blouse as mada ribbon dropping Into a The sleeve Is novel In affect, fail and paffy at the top, and tha aemblanea of a aorlra of puffs 1a given by moans ot appllqued bands of tba trimming taca at close Intervals. Tba collar ta also at tbla lace, and tha garment fasten In tha back. a all-ov- Variety and a Wide Choice Ornaments and Dressings. Thera ara pretty nearly aa many waya dresaar where she ran observe every af drmudng the hslr this aeown aa tbora men, and then aha readily learns Just ara Indlvldunla, no might ahurat ray, how to seromplUk tbs noraf coiffure. and the aiatement won Id be not ao vary With tba eye to small economics and a far from tha troth, after alL perrantal thrift that even tba wealthiest la tha later mod re bullion drrera a of Fiench and Entlieh mondalaea pracrhango from tha aodnlatlon that hero tice, ona eaa readily esc bow Inexprnstvs, ro me so diatreoelngly popular, aad aa wall ac convenient, it ta to have a maid who ta (killed In tha art of cclffnrs bee dona ly an artist, ran-awhich, even help bot appear atrltingly artUlrisl. always at hand. Who waa It that aver started tha fallacy While tha wared hair Is still In good landing, tbs later modes oodrarac ta that disorderly, untidy hair, with wlspa blowing every which way far Hnnday. comproduce soiss nearer aeiahlanea to a natural WITS. posed an artistic coiffure 1 Whoever It was, certainly was aa frlsnd to tba girl of Evening celffurea this season, and especially when planned for opera and theater artlattc asplrsllnna, for anything mors artistic muds wear, are still to bo drraird high. Tho slovenly than this fashion of omitting tbo hat when an of hairdressing can not well ba Imagined. A good thing It Is that Iams Fashion baa grande tono ta ono tbit sains ground almost dally on tills sltle of too water. takaa a band In tha gama, and aunonaerd that brtlllantlne is to ba applied tba last Wliat In the world la tor sense In making eolffura for rvanlng wear an thing to tba finished coiffure. It pays, and aud then cortdog It np with a haft pays wdl, to purchase tbs Imported article In this respect, far the Franck brllliantlno, Added to which the mat of oua evening hat or two at tha mwk would pay far libs all of their toilet articles and must pass (lamination by tha pubany number af rlahoratg or artistic many timoa over, aad perhaps allow lic ehemlat era It ran ba placed oa sale, so a margin for tadractlui In tha art that It can ha officially guaranteed aa absolutely pure and harmless contains Iras alsotiot than does the domestic, and then Women who will unhesitatingly and ta Isas danger of tha hair becoming brittle allow tbcmarlVM all sorts of and snapping off nndcr Its continnod oml Ingnrira wNI severth-lea- a extravagant Few women there art who have sufficient deny their selves the srnrlrra of an artistic cotffeor or a trained maid. Is this rbtralurs of ibrir own natural growth to rhlevw the elaborate structure that Is preora Instance tbs American woman af rrra moderate means would do well to scribed far reel lag and full dress use. ropy her French or English r.ulu, with Little rouleanu, puffs, braids and mrl are ahum tho maid la as. India pe said, as art supposed to ba supplied ly art, and their Bho adjustment must be accomplished In rirh fit clotfra of which she takes a rlerrv way that tha fact of thrir falsity Is supposed to bo skilled In tba ears of tte hair, tha skin, the complexion, sad to ta not apparent. Tho almpla faohloa of parting tbs hair replace in her set cluec tho many specialists most of thorn Incompetent and all and drawing Its length Into a knot at tha of them aanraalrt ta whom tha dmeri-ra- n bask ta ana that when becoming at all la woman without a maid resorts as naually astramaly aad chanrterlirlcally a. Tba taw wornaa to whom this stylo lo freely. Parisian re ff stirs make a specialty af appropriate wisely eaongh seldom or over Instructing ladles' maids In their art, aod thasge It, In spits or tho many and frathe mistress nsitally pays the fra foe neb grant changes that fashion reeommrnds la Instrnetltci. Wbea the fsvbton In her-this sonaectlra. Just a Ions, loo- -- and reeving changes, os It don every onto la assy wavs of tho locks ovnr tbs cars Is so often, rnadsme will bring her maid all that la supposed t ba aecewary to ) Siting with bar, seat her bralda tba hair-- dressing. Mot toi; kind of s axis tbit la h-- . acrea-aurls- rotf-fure- o iJome, known as Marcel, after Ita In yen tor, but Just that loose ways that cornea whan tha locks ara habitually braid'd In a thick braid and not raught too tight Tli ornament! that ara supposed to finish tha eolffura ar becoming prettier and daintier every day. The many combs necessary to keeping would bt el mauling locks In place ara shown with jewels -either real or muck -- and gold mountings. Beta of four combs ara supposed to 1 necessary. One for either aids of the head nnd two far tha back. The hirettr la now naually made after conili fashion; toil holding thoaa llttla scolding lock a at tha napa of tha neck hrt'er than did the pin. Oat rirh Ups, naually combined with an aigrette, are once more In furor; and marabout tlpa. tha downy, fleecy oiuetlmri tipped with pear-ahaiir- d span' flies, or lightly dnstsd with gold or alleer dust, ara considered extremely appinprtsfe for the younger generation. Chaplets of leaver In gold or stlTtr tissue, rrlrrt or the ordinary follngt or tli millinery counter, are wound around tba knot of the rolffurr. no matter just wher it may happen to ba placed. Coronets of rlbtmn bows and rosettes are a mo . tbs latrst and vary clever result! arc effects, achieved In those simple materials. Ona In white natln ribbon bat an Intricate braiding of ribbon for tha faonJstlnn, and on tbla there ara fly roses In the sums white ribbon, each well wired and span-g'e-d wl'b diamond (rhinestone! dewdropa. Those lit fly Juliet caps hare not made all of the succeaa In New York that they a, have abroad. however, aver there are In far mors favor than they errr attained to bere. At recent wedding tha bridesmaids all wore lacs mob tips, just tha suae as their xrrst --grand mot hers used to wear, and the effect whlls ha-l- ly universally becumlnc. waa atli: succcaafnl from a purely spectacular point of view. Oaa woald not find a uevy of Americas bridcaawids by auy means 11 willing to obssura their charms la deference ta general affect. Tha eitreme vogue ot rlbboni brings forth haw axca avary (ar. a recast Idea fui Oowa. Tbs plain severity of tola style wifi command It to many, si though tba cuff, taea adgad, does ! a mau-arml tigs ta tha plainness at tba shirtwaist. Tba front shows a novel variatloi of the aimllar broderie anglalas at syslet work, tbla all wrought by hand; wfclla a folded stock collar of tha plala It sea ta left absolutely antrlmmed. Deep tacks cces-ptoe front, either aide of tba plastroa aad fin tha entire shoulder ream. This tatter Item ta of tho broad variety, and extends wall to tba curve at tha im, while tba tucks ara pressed flat la ths shape af pirate dear dews to tha waistline. Tha sleeve ta fall, ahlrrad to tha armhole and with tba falaraa caught tats tucks balow tha elbow, tba handkerchief ruflte making n finish halfway to the wrist Tha fa atoning la affected at an Ida at the plaatraa, tavWbly. game Mawol OntUnea, f a d Novelty la Conatrwetlow. Valen-ateona- a firmly-bone- Revelations-Delight- ful Fat Ww With a Tnllermais (hast naek that la Tha llttla square cut-ovariously known as tba Dutch, tha Continental and tha London finish, ta ona of tha characteristics of the lingerie blonra In Ita mmnwr time gutas. da aaan In tha Illustration, tha square cut at tba hack ta omawhet filled la with taea, and a softening touch to given la tha llttla taca ruflta that rnna around tha throat. Tha blotme ta tuckrd ta groups all across tha front and la too shoulder seams, and a stragrf Canterbury balls ta gling pattern wrought by hand with delightful affect across tha front. Tba fastening la In tha back. Just n llttla leafy vine patten being worked In parallel raws altber aids of tha fastening. Tba alaava ta a abort and moderately full puff, dropping Into tucked baud at tha elbow, and thta In torn adgad with a Ungsria frill with a taea adga. THE MODE IN COIFFURE. Some Recent xtth a tiilorjnpda rtoycl outline d coin-tor- Tho Dnlntlacos mt tho Later Modo, a corset cover made entirely of In wash rlbb-mwidth, these running araumt tba body and attached toof taco beading through gether by which arc run wash baby rlblHins. The front Is finish') with a frill of tha ribbon down either of the beading, and tbs armholes srs treated In toe same manner, lints of tiny ribbon plettlngs are shown among the advance moduli for tha spring and summer season for both tba llttla folks and their alders. Nothing could be simpler than the conatni'floa at these. Tho wire al.apa la selected and after a thin Inwn or aimllar material Is adjusted are sewed on. row over It the r af'r row. pin.-- In tba nine manner na braid, with tk exception, of course, that only one nls la rawed down. Borne there are with fai wy pnft straw crowns, which can be houtkt In plarraa form snil ara very easy of manipulation. ally colored belts attract toe eye of the passerby at tha belt vonntera of the The fad far plaids metropolitan shope. and cheeks In bread ellki nnd woolen weaves has Irffnenerd the ribbon to bring ant plaid and rlie.'lr'd ribbons, and li Is of thaaa ribbons I hat the hells are i .site. They range In width from on t and a half Inches, being mounted pialu ovnr a foundation of They : then Hitched many t'mra In white heavy silk, lengthwise, and fasten w'-a gold or stiver hurtle In tkf front, nestle belts, that Is, elastic over which Is shirred laffrta ik or rib bon are with sire! na'Hirsd nnd frequently jet but tbs steel decora lions are tlie most popular. Tbt new season's Wish ro-romprlss an novelty after another. Sheer and Bna whits linen lawns primed f.iral bi Jars In natural colors tlisst looking more as though thrv wr-- e applhjiird on Border effrcl than primed srs very prominent In tbs sliow'.r.gs tnd Iernsn effects with satin striped rlgs give ti,e affect of ribb-'i'applle to (be lawn or wbatersr the fabric may be. bows s two-inc- s mann-facture- to ha'r-r'nt- h stu-M-- ds FASHION NOTES. are still tba favorite nark finish, and nre used In (own of all descriptions, from the most elaborate sort to the simdress. The stiff white Rock ple shirt-waiand turnover collar, ao mack worn several yrsra ago, ara atilt nasd to some extent, and for certain occasions nra tha only suitable choice, but In tba lingerie, silk and crepe blouses and any costume which 1a not of tba moat severs type, tba becoming niche la generally aern. Tha ff artea wsshsbls kinds ara tha most practical far many uses, nnd for tola reason the Mt or footing niching is a favorite, aa It may be lrft In the neck of a wash blouse aad laundered with It. The pisltrd chiffon rurbre are tlaa vary prrtty but need constant repirn lshlng. and ran only be worn once or twice, m that are rather cxpmslrs. Them la also another sort of mrhing which 1a not washable but looks very wall In simply made gowns. It comas at S9 cento a box, which makes the rest of each rnebe shoot two rants. The skirt la of a folded stiffened net. finely plaited, and though not suitable fur a very Bor elaborately trimmed Mouses nr frocks, la very satisfactory for gi'crs1 wear. For the well dressed woman fresh rach-lo- r Is. of course, essential, nnd It 1s much to be preferred that tba simplest, moat sort bn worn and that It ba fresh. on the white lingerie Mouses, of tha trimmed and embroidered sort, wide colored ribbon ta also need, ribbon or else r.thrr tbs plain ti e rdf figured dotted ar embroidered half-Inc- h gros-gral- kin The very thin hnndberrhlefa showing I'tiis plaldlngs or rrora ban In white thread Sirovs the surface arc clao In aud the mercerised llnra varieties niib colored borders and Initials or In the entera are still In vogue. The plain linen handkerchiefs, however, with c rather narrow hem and Initials In ona corner are always very desirable and In goad tastOi r. The exquisitely cheer embroidery that ta combined with a novel taea that partakes partly of tha natnra of Venetian and partly of that of Irish crochet mskw tola watat n marvel of daintiness, dad yet It ta ao almpla that any woman who knows at all bow to handle a need la may readily reproduce it for herself, d llttla Is nsed to blend tha broad taca aad tha embroidery together, and with exThera Is a results. cellent yoke over tha shoulders, composed of tho bands of Isca and ambroidary, tba braid taco making tha collar with fratberboM support sc nsusl. tba Valenciennes assuming slightly wavy Una wbero tba blonra ta applied with scant fnlnaaa. Tba (boulder ta broad, tba sleeve top aaanmlag lengthwise llnra, while toe cuff employs tha aims materials In tba contrsrydlrcetlotL Yanen-ctenn- Quito a different appearance ta gtvw ta this blonra la tbo clever way tba plastroa ta lasorted. Tba fastening, aa usual, to la tba back. Tba plastroa ta of aamll pinched tucks, haadraa, and tba broderie ao glalra that forma tba bolara part ta applied with a llttla rallied Valcaclenacs M cover too Joining seem. The collar b high and wdl faatoeiboned to boU clow ta too throat, tba tacktag and a Utile taea ruffled along hta top making toll Item. Tha alaava la quits fall, ahlirod ts the armslaa, nnd taea and a lock an used to farm a faatooa pattern an tha forearm. Tha deep castellated cuff k at tha tucking aad edged all along Ita mw oral tabs with tha raffled Valenciennes- Those Effective Cioarad Bond Tho finest and sheerest af handkerchief linens makes thta attractive blousa, which shews Ita coaMy handwork at every taro. Tha blensa 1 tea If fallows tha rrgalatloa lines. It ta In tba two crossed hands that wand their way, back and front b boulder ta waistline, that tba novelty apwork pears. Thoaa are of Mexican drawn la a moat Intricate pattern, all aad rack band at openwork Is adgad with a pllsae lingerie frill of tbs fins Huso, with a hemstitched hem and a Tha steers ru filing of raal Valenciennes. ta full aad long, loops of frathnrbens am holding It wall out at the shoulder, In ; sordanre with the latest caprice of aad a frill la attach'd to cither to edge of a narrow band at openwork The make a double raff at tha wrist asm method provides far the collar, aod tha fastening la In tba back. faro-ion- WHY THE MORNING Most people at sometime tat their Urea probably bare risen early enough to experience toe bracing effect given by filling the longs while the dew ! ctlll on tha grass, fio far aa analysis goes, tha composition of early morning air ta act different from tha air at any other time. It ta wall to remember, however, that daring tha ps1ng. of the night to day and af day to night several physical changes taka place. Thera la a fall of temperature at annaet and a rise again at dawn, and, consequently. moisture ta alternately being thrown out and taken np again, and It U well known that change of state la accompanied by electrical phenomena and certain chemical manlfantatlona, Bisol The formation of dew has probably, there-forfar more profound effects than merely the motatenlng of objects with water. Dew I vltallxlng, not entirely because It Is water, but because It possesses an Invigorating action, due, partly at any rate, to the fart that It ta saturated with oxygtu, and It bus bean stated that dor AIR IS HEALTHFUL Ing Ita formation peroxide aad hydrogen and soma aaoM ara developed. It ta not improbable that tha peculiarly attractive and rafirahlng quality which mirks tbs ta tbla rally morning air baa Its origin to that tha bracing property arty morning air wean off ai tb' xnras, and It ta easy to conceive TBr of freshness ta dra to th erottde ot hydrogen whichever it i It being need up, fflcnlty ot Inducing gram to taa r a tree In fall leaf ta well knowa that coevally explained by earing a absorbs toe nourishing ronatltn-tbaon-a- y noil or that It keep the w from tha gram and pioteeta any whether ta doubtful i rain. It ara true, tba rcm -- explanations ritalta-cannMt probably being that tka farm upon toe gram ander and whereas as a rale both misessenroach It. Dew ta probably of both plants and tia hato a greater extent thaa is i i well-bein- g |