OCR Text |
Show TIIE MOBN1NO EXAMINE!!, SUNDAY, OCTOHElt 30, 1901 t J example. La Otero, while graoeftd. probably the moot accomplished daasM on the world's stagey haa nevorthMsw tha thick wrists and ankiea and bread handa and feet which show her peeei blood. DreeoH, by hla drooping lam cuffs and tha full folds of tha skirt, Ingeniously hidden both of thaas and the salmon-colore- d velvet of the gown, with tho purple velvet of the hit and its mange plumes, haa .inw. formed an Ideal netting for the Pkaakmate beauty of tho gras Bpaatail hi aa, let FOB AS ENGLISH OOURTM Turning from tha stage aobllffy te net forth In Burke'a Peerage, we acre to tho Counteaa of Brldgeerater, who long to on of the oldest and wealtlihre of tho princely English hottest. IE gown, by Worth, la made up rethely heavy meshes of La Balia las wMoh had been la tha Dudley family fcr naag year and waa aagarly oeload upon Ik Worth when tho ortlat woo oalled m to design a fitting costume for the y g Countoas preeantathmte King Idnii last Bummer. In thLi imtuw. huge mpg La Franca rosea were ottoehad by statu of green velvet to tho heavy white sat la underskirt which tha lac gown., Tha eidered tha moat effeotiv at tha regal I, drawing-roo- Bedfem, who la the favorite ef tha Russians, Shown bora a charming manna of old rose cloth faced with wHMfh priceless pasaemantrtSL A capt about with tho soma material over tha arm. The Hv Is E the Inverness stylo, tha aoot having sleeves of It own. Tho Pompadour foulard dress, by Redfern, la an exquWti example of the uaa of continuous ms lapping bonds of tuckad foulard. Tba ooatuma glvaa a oartain asrpamlna grata to tho wearer, and It wna designed for Countess BrovlnsU, whose huahand k well known on the French Bourse, Tha descriptions must nooaasarll y M to do Justice to these, the vary.fanl examples of tha art of tho mss of Faria. gTbay. howevar, ghra I fairly brood idea of Just what laofttuwd vtut out by these curious usurpers was onco a purely feminine sphera M eomUm-tioeon no bo too costly, material of colors Impossible so ha as It carries thought out to tho satisfaction these men their Ideas aa to tha gmmhf of tho moat beautiful women In Ih world. Their whole work and Miao this one delta-tthought la bounded by on crest and to keep creating as times that are Impossible outside of niysllo precinota of tho Place do u draw-make- originator of the Mr waa a and hla name wits Worth. Worth man, and In making waa a hlmaclf ha Invented that modem ttctor In roamopolitan aodetjr the man Today the original man draaa maker has a doaan Imitators. Including thraa of hla non a, who have aueceeded to the millionaire business which tha Th Bantu I eelf-ma- drees-maka- ' r. gradually pioneer In accumulated. Tha man dreaamaker la a curious creature. Ha haa tha external appearance of a num, wear, a frock coat and tha other uaual acceaaorlaa of maieullne at tire, but ha haa tha language and walk of a woman, lie talka Incessantly and charmingly of mouaaellna da aola and emplacement volants en forma lie on gored akirta and dreama of of colora and materlala Each of tha big man dressmakers la tha king bee among hlvea of women who Ilea around him, abaurb hla ideas and keep him In a eontinuoua aun bath of admire Tha man drras-maktton and adulation. takaa tha aame pleasure In tha Bhlmmer of aatin and the lueter of ailk aa tha moat luxurloua of womankind. In a word, ha hua pni-- l tha forfeit. If auch it pnn lie considered, of ueurplng their feminine donuiln by oncoming Impregnated with feminine idoala, manner-Uiu- a and way a of thought. WBEII THE GOW1I ARE MtDR. In fact, the man d reel maker, who Is aa well and denanally a man milliner to ho worn with hla more signs the hats , la coetuim-sone of tlie great Important forces of tlia world today. Ha haa for and hie hla splenmitgueln usurped didly appointed offices the Una old houaea Vendome Place nliout the in grouped Paris, where tile path la lined with flowers and flattery scattered by the wealthiest and most beautiful women from both hemispheres. Hla vanity Is passing strong In fuel, he considers himself more Important than a cabinet minister. The head of each firm la flattered and favored beyond the wildest Imaginations of the ordinary man. With a word of approval be can create a leader of fashion from amongst the many beautiful women who seek tils help la the art of being arlistieally dressed. In a word, laquin, Hedfem, Worth, and Pehr are roeuillet, Drecoll, Callot the gioup of great costume designers who. from the Place Vendome, send out their creations snd their mandates which London, Paris, Kw Turk, Knn Francisco. Vlenra. bt. l'e.tershurg and Berlin shall consider the height of fashion and tha very pink of the flower of Tlie Americans go to food dressing. the Russians, with tlielr passionate love for gorgeous colors, to Red-ferthe Worths aitll continue to gowa the women of the English aristocracy, llthougti Doeulllet la costumer-in-gen-irto the Duchess of Marlborough and tome of the younger and more frivolous of the British set. Yhe Rpanlsrda go to Drecnll, while Csllot and Behr gowa the glittering circles of the the actresses, the beautiful women of Parte and Vienna, who gamble away fortunes from unknown sources, and. In short, that woudeiftil mushroom aristocracy of Europe which has no place on tide aide of the Atlantic, but which. In the matter of costumes. It must be admitted. frequently exrels ila more and solid upper crust. ravages of lima and laxlneaa among tha pampered womankind of tha very rich Is a powerful lever upon which tha hands of these men dressd maker press, and under this presatire flows out a very river of gold and tig-ur- ea coro-blnatl- many-ringe- power. er of these half dozen mala dressmakers, these potentates of fashion. Their main duties are to create soma thousands of eoatumea. ranging In price from S1.0N for a simple shirtwaist costume to thirty and forty and liny thousand dollars for or the coror mans, weddings snd funerals of continental Fu-nbest society. 'America alone Imports, It is estimated, K.imn.ovO worth annually of tha gowna made by theta es- drawing-room- s, ls n; al r half-wor- ld Momoii . I27WZLZjy OLDltett CLCU2 a gorgeous combination of velvets, laces and embroideries such as adorn the feminine guests at King Edward's royal tablishments. In a financial sense an even greater Influence Ilea la tha hands of these men. Thay not only ereate the proper outlines and the mure ih licate touches of fashionable dressing the world over, but they even nama the materlala which eventually go Into the wholiwaie markets of the world for feminine wear. Tha embroiderer embroiders, the weaver weaves and tlie season's wares are brought before Mm. lie selects. the beat his property. pattern and makes them Those ha rejects tiud tlu-iway In the mxsasina drs nouveaut-s- . Then commences the nol le of bis army of women. They dcs.sn tor these and he selects taking a sleeve ftoin one.aguin. skirt from mid thus ho luiilds the modi s tlint the world cmnn lo buy. Silks lire fashionable or otherwise; velvets are proper or moat imifsr-t; laces should abundant or sparingly need, as this ef fiishionalile tPctntnr ring lxn.r-EHmay deli cowwERti.it. cide. Tliousa in's of fni.r.i-i.- -s and tni'ls watch I he taati-- ami uicisims of these It Is difficult to even epproxlmstely men. and hundreds i.f tluiiisands of eetimata tha actual commercial inllutftvo working men and women apply their ae-da- te All these famous male cos- tumers are extraordinarily wealthy; each has hla decided following, and all ls ier-hn- 11 energies along the line Indicated by tha whims and frequently tha bud Judgment of these same male dressmakers of the I'l.ice Vendome. I'nri. Nothing can more start llr.gly show tha position hrld liy these men than the fact that many a duchess, pompous and proud despite her emlKunpoInt.hns waited In the anteroom of I'aquln, Rntrern or Worth whle these gentlemen nave sipped their morning rhnrnlnte before deigning to receive the anxious peeress. The hops that the man dressmaker would discover some material or design whlrh would make the terrifying fulness of the ducal curves less npimrent Itss curbed many a haughty dames spirit. As one proud Indy explained to an American protege niter waiting Hum miurs for Faquln to give them nn audience: dear, 'he man la a brute to keep me liy waiting. and it la agony for-mto sit up so lung in the morning in these corsets. But there is nobody else in the world that can suit inT flgure and lenuthm out my curve I wait except Fsqiilti. tlnnsequenlly hero, although you knii v would not do In else the world. (t anywhere BEtMIVI FOR GREAT POWER. And t- explain In n way the l hold which these men getiron, on their nubia client. Nearly all of them . flet-ru- have some slight disfigurement or peIn form or carriage which is lntlmalely known to their favorite amongst the great French costumera To overcome this the man dressmaker glvrs Ms best efforts. Many a new design In gowning was brought about from the fact that tlie man dressmaker lias been forced to Invent some new Idea In order to hide tha personal defect of a famous client Millions of women suddenly began to wear their hair upon tha nape of the neck because the Queen of Englanf"3i velnpcd a bed scar In that place, which lur to adopt that form of dressing the luilr. Because an aristocratlo lady found lierself cursed wlthnmoetplebrlan -- t of vai-that stood out alarmingly from her shapely head, came the worldwide fashion or training the hair low down end concealing the ears. Tlie smrf worn around the tliront was Invented by Wurth and became supremely fashion.1 1, le liecaue an Empress hail a sln- neck. The long (iularlv unlovely was originated by Redfern because a famous French actress had very bony and prominent wrisjs. In fcshi'in set by this coterie In fact the I'aiis l .ive many singular and Interesting iirlgins The li.ucing to uppesr sell dressed and tha desire to conceal the culiarity b-- s liava undoubted talent OF FAMOl'B DESCRIPTION COSTIMES. The eight eoatumea shown represent In each instance an effort which waa regarded aa an artistic and professional triumph on the part of tha dreaamaker who achieved it They show In a striking manner the clientele which crowds of these Its way Into tha waiting-room- s ms si era of fashion. One, the superb iece costume, covered with showers of velvet roses, waa worn by the Countess of Bridgewater kt the last royal drawingroom of tha Court of St James. The eleby the Mslson gant tiills.il res produced Ney Sueur was worn by the Countess da Cast el lane, formerly Miss Anna Gould. Perhaps tha most magnificent of la that triumphant II these costumes 'allot gown of hravy crimson stlk which is being worn by the great French of actress. La Cavalier! In her revival Snrdou's "U Tosca" at tlia Comedia no Of course, reguFranchise, in Paris. made lar descriptions of these gowns, for well known women, are ever create who tlia gentlemen deigned by them. However, aa each of them la the for envknis and admiring women target would who dea're, but cannot wear well Inthem, the world Is sissy kept the hits formed each year concerning made by these master coatuiuers of the world's wealthy class. In tha eight superb masterpieces, which here illustrate, the craft of tha French modistes, no one can be seriously considered aa having coat It costthan Is 12.4m. and this low level of touched only In the ease of the simple of cloth gray designed by walking dress Lady Molesworlh. wlio Is tha Iaquin offorLord cousin Dudley Vernon, the Conservative leader In the British House of Lords. Going upward In the scsle of prices from the gray cloth walking suit of lhtquln we cum to tha afteruon gown by Drecoll. made, by then. way. for an American, Miss Esther whose father. John Mscllicr-soIn lhe engineer. Is American mining circles and on Wall made of a direct. This gown, which dark brown ssiln foulard with s henviiy embroidered whirs dot, was designed to tie worn nl functions by Miss Maclhers.n, who is now in London. To with the gown 1'rueoil designed for wsr fair Aniur.can tbs simple brown this well-kno- n, well-kno- ufl-rno- nn felt bat crossed by a hugs white ostrich plume. GOWKI WORTH MATT THOl'BANDB. Callot'e creation for the French actress, La Cavallerl, is another Instance which shows that the native Parisian prefers this muster dressmaker to Worth or Redfern, who are ao popular with tha American and tha English mesdamea. Callot, In creating this gown of crimson silk, with Its marvelous raised embroidery of green allk foliage and tendrils, from which hang rosea and pansies, has suited to a nicety tlia exotic coloring demanded by the great death scene In Bardou's master drama, "La Tosca." This gown, which has been desired by of tho women who have visited Paris in tha last year, coat tha actress MO. 000. It represents almost to life the dressmaker's Idea, which la that of roaes and d figpansies dinging to tho ure of Bardou's. greatest heroine. GOWN WORN IN LA TOSCA." The other gowna range upward Into the thousands, the moat expensive undoubtedly blng the Callot gown already mentioned, worn by I A Cavallerl. The drawing-roogown, ly Worth, for the Countess of Bridgewater, and the n-colored velvet carriage robe designed by Preroll end worn by La Otero, the dancer, who Is now the idol of the fanciful Parisians, cost In the neighborhood of tUJ.UUO. In each instance the hats worn with the costumes were designed for this purpose and made In the millinery attachments of the big dressmaking establiuhnienta. Even the least critical of women or the most unobservant of men cannot full to note an undeniable air of distinction and of what the French call "effect In three gowna The most patriotic American would hardly claim that be equaled on this side of the they could Thera aema to be something Atlantic. In tlie air of Paris and in the luxurious and warmly tinted lifesubtly that centers about the Place de Vendome thnt enables Iheaa artists In silks, embroideries. laces and other matcriule to evoke masterpiece of costuming impossible to the most talented of alien Pa-qui- n, two-thir- ds satin-robe- m salmo- world-famo- artist. the gowns singly, the wonder-fu- i Taking salmon-colore- d robe of trim-t.te- d at the the collar andvelvet, bust lines with drooping folds of pure Valenciennes lace, duplicated at the slender is one of Drrcml's best. Brewrists, con Is adored by the and Italians for hi gorgeous Hpanlh of and vivid coloring. Lagrouping r.tereTwlth hS dark bcautv of mixed Ppanish and Ita-lo- n type, evidently appealed strongly to the artist dressmaker, and the cunaloe of his design can bo well shown by um Paris. Cl'RIOl'l RELATION BHTWEU THESE TWO. Tho relation between client and eta; turler also boa ita curious side. WM tha stranger aomea to the couturier. " latter knows himself feels hla power and uses It. He haalM known to request aa exotic cllsnt provide herself with aultald eonM expecting and underlinen before brain to work on her behalf. Thorebi eondeecenaton in hla hearing thrtta lg Oj before tho Parisian no, but It stranger who Intereata hlm most, vhj helps w supply himhtawith hta yacht, hlnv. house, his motors, knows aha cannot do without thedrata worM tho of PMta From all making eatabllahmenta send their W him. to I''" "T.Z7 resentatlves they Italy. England, America omm hundred rnhom Thr to be Inspected twice a yy. the Louis Qulnna and LouU n loons are full of what, are known buyers. Tha aspect of tbs ple anlmw changed, the ttrapeom The room look deed mid AromtdU" seem to be at a funeral. walls are cbalra and aeated os chair is a man. Here and thsra" background un lnslgnlflciint n joow woman loans forward to emeh jpWJJ of her companion. Boooer or ajm nation la represented bywlvea .tjjmjg men In black with tbslr ewmj haa or aunts. Tha old order sent Indited, when men are women's clothes and women lt back rows and are not nskednw brought otajjj opinion. They are as give them a treat, Thethey wouj etreus. taken to the the mn-bu- rr maker has Instituted But- after nil. womankind and trains best of all this designing of While these hybrid males Pwjsjj functions ao many usurped tre fsmlnhiApreS considered essentially woid lies with the woman. The flnsj umph belongs to tho femininetna clualvely; for, after all, only can wear tha clothe. w " - Mrs AdasIM. ago an unmarried wornsn f? looked upon aa a sottrold tm. mi Nowadays aha la In her prime ana. be the ideal of a young man. pro many yean her Junior. Tu" have a for tolling women penchant considerably older than selves and men who hayo left X behind find much Plsur vr.,, companionship of these women, one time were suppoeed to h lino eour by disappointment Men mm f women demsnd so younger tentl-in- . They expect to be ele they vote the men dull "ore-1,- . terestlng. whereas a woman over realises that men areto o. retired to reck their brain new amusement or that It inr no their nature to be entertaining clnatlng before a crowd, llsuisn wb might be Intensely Interesting " but two or three friends Tto an exeellent e"J, the woman of reel companion whenever they FL, r Ing. golfing, cycling, etc. Bhe aur. hint to propose to her elwsys afraid she may his simplest remarks Into a her band. ,t roly( 1 3 |