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Show THE MORNING EXAMINER, SOBER TINTS MODES IN AUTUMNS . . .......... PARISIAN OGDEN, CTAII, SUNDAY MORNING, SEPTEMBER ;;t;;;i;;f;;t;;ti'iiii',''''t When the inaie- at the Auk. 5. The question ivl surf i s picily cnccit Is I, adaptable, hears every side m you iioiim for Ihe represented l.y a ekm trimmed with Smart Parisian three trilla- - to wit. s brood cue ut the a narrower one half Hie way kre now merely iiassing through the up snd the third and ttol hardly u gay capital on llieir way from Hamlie waist line. burg or Alx, where Home tiresome d:-to- r ijuarter of a yird from ordered poor Alphonse tw I perhj or dear Celeste to take the cure fur gout or rheumatism. Cured amt happy. tl'e vielims are now eu route U 1aiia lor a aeries ut country house l Inlln. Nobody 1 have met seem to tie oinR i. PARIS. of ore's home, although the friends have .ounlry places. Still Hie prevalent ide.Jpeems to tie to rent one's own chateau and either make a round nf country hotiae v lulls or eelulilmh oneself lit soinehoily tine's home. Moof the notony is a deadly Bin in tl.e ejes I hey are socially elect, and ss long not Billing under their own vine snd hit tree in the ruuniiy this uutumn smart people will be unite happy.. IVrsansIly I can never find it In my heart tu denounce the little failings mid whlnmK'alilles of smart people, who sic usually mi pi el l y, amusing and liuiis-liaret- it that nobody with any sense would think or takiiiK tlsui aeriouniy. To much abused society we owe almost rverythiiia that is bright and g.iy and color and gliilei whleh nil make the di Iterant seasons here in l'n so attractive. Kn poss.iiil, my lady is holding long and niyatvi inua seamen willi her couturier concerning the f.ili costumes to be sent on Inter to her address. These verr advanced sartorial secrets ars jealously guarded, but ws all know that nothing stands still, snd the grtal artists In ths dressmaking world have to prepare mouths In advance fur the changes In the season's modes. Hy a lucky chance 1 was admitted Into the coiiihleiu'rs of a celebrated dressmaker, who, unfortunately, with unnecessary modesty requested that Ills mime sliould not ho mentioned, as he hates tu he talked shout. (Sweetly inoileal, was it nut? Uf course I promised In fact, would have given conscience ball for almost any amount in order tu get ut tlis exclusive Ideas up the slcevuf this "prince of couturiers," as he Is culled. Weil, to come to the point, 1 learned that there would be no mure sloping shoulders In tlie winter modes and that the excessively broad effect would no longer be clilc In the coming by and by. The new compromise Is to hide the armholes with a narrow adjustment of embroidery or trimming of some kind. And, by the way, we are to have no more Indiscriminate mlxlurea of laces. I he heavy varieties having been settled upon by the powers that be as the thing. The full effect at the bark and hips which the Victorian styles brought Into prominence le to disappear, and In Its stead will come the tight tilting, skirts. Indeed there is to be a complete revolution In the rut of the up to dste n. To Insure the sheathlike appear-- n nee so sought after In ths new cult two narrow aide gores ars Introduced which make possible a perfectly smooth fit over tho hips and obviates ths Inserting of even small darts by way of assistance. As to trimming, Instead of hrlng restricted to tho lower and upper IHirtlon It covers tho entire area of the skirt, reserving a slight hit of unclaJin- - frock of lesser severity being smartly Ion of new evolved from out-o- f the ansa u It cloths, which, if possible. are more attractive Hum last seasons dm thms. Not to confound these two diMiiictly pew modes and to have no conluMcii between wluit was erstwhile l lie ninrnlng lallor costume and the tailored afternoon toilet a new name will liuve to I invented for the coming sterner ts Holism. Just hy way of how would it do tu call the i h-- h-- s i J plain coat and skirt a tailor dies ami the ornate affair a tailor sown? Tills is a distinction with a lot nf difference to the sartorially educated, hut Is sadly lacking, probably, to the woniaii of 111 tie dress learning, in whatever 'way the weighty matter Is slrh-ll- j . . . frills we have all thought mi stunning during, the summer. A very swagger Parisian ntondaine, the ltueheaae dTxee, was seen lately at a function wearing lliew? lace epheiner-alitie- u in her otlieiwisc severe tailored gown, and behold tne l ium lilng of them in exclusive gels! Tu-little amenities are dainty, but the edge of a man-nia- li looking cuff seems belter form for a gown of tills sort. As for the colors In vogue this full ami winter, tg enhance the charms of fcinhilnlty, brown end green seem to he mill the leading favorites, with it decided Ironing to yellow as a high light tint. Have you ever noticed how much color is affected by the fa brio of textures mol, again, how certain shades can transform not only sleeve e II, nuances from onion to tawny yellow's will be a safe choice either In solid colors or in mixtures. Stripes are to be jaipular, and the day of 'the shepherd plaids are not yet over; but, aa the little hoy who paid court to all the ladies In a hotel where I was staying this summer confided to me one day "that when he got tired of every one else he always came back to mother," just so do we tickle lovers or new colors and cumbThulUm always come back to the safe snd to be trusted navy blue or some plain surf mar. White, though, will be us much wont by young and old aa it has been fur several seasons, and there is a certain simplicity about a white dress that always appeals to the Parisian couturieres, for the Hue de la Puls urtlsta quickly tire of colors, however exquisite, and strive to dress their clientele in distinguished looking white w lieu possible rather than In color creations, although they excel in tone vheines. The Parisian girl and young matron are taking great heed these (lays to the manufacture of golfing costumes to be worn on the links of Boulie, which green, nestling between the Seine, the terrace of St. Germain and Fort Mar-le- y. is a favorite spot on crisp, cool days, and later on. when the melancholy days are really with us, a large part of Paris society will gather at this attractive sporting ground. Then It la that these stunning gowns will come Into commission. Uowns for the moorg must be Included In the wardrobe of tlie 1904. woven tweed hae been eueressf ully converted into s stunning golfing costume by a famous tailor here. Tlie skirt Is plain snd graceful in its ankle length lines, and a russet brown cloth makes the chits banded code, which is deliciously negligee, blousing Just a trtfie ail round over a brown leather belt. The fronts are turned back and fared with the plaid, which material also AUTUHH OUTDOOR COSTUMES. Lots nf sartorial solecisms will he spared us If tlie fat, dumpy women will relinquish all claims to this particular effect, leaving these frills to her lull, alight slater, .and adopt the equully smart dlrectolre skirt, which, with its clinging, long lines, will accentuate her height at least several Inches. Ttiia year of grace two kinds of severe tallur inndea are to divide feminine affection, snd fiighlnq will smile alike uion bulh the severe and ornate style of cast snd skirt costume. The dividing line will 'be found even more dietlnctly than formerly, tlie euvere gown having for ita basic fabric the rougher tweeds and mixtures and the settled I will not begrudge eoma one else the honor of Inventing a better and more expressive cognomen. While on the subject of tailorlsin, "according to tlie latcNt dictates the coat of the moment, which In most canes will be long Hnd severely cut, has as a saving grace un adornment of velvet buttons pluced in a sedate row down the front and a becoming velvet facing to the small turnover collar. The leas severe jacket Is beautified and nuide more attractive by having tucked Inside the plain sleeve kilted frills of a straight edged lace. These frills peep cunningly from the cuff and do not flow out In (he aggressive fashion nf the elbow be-ne- g womans appearance, but her whole personality T For Instance, as to fabrics, eau de nil la wiahy washy and Ineffective In crapy materials, but In the new fan cloth of this color the effect Is delightful, and many a woman who would be a perfect fright In a pale green evening frock will present a charming picture to the world In a costume of light green doth. Purple Is another tone that looks better in rougher surfaces than In smooth effects, but Is wonderfully good lit crapy materials, tulle end chiffon. The season later on will undoubtedly produce a new or several new fashionably shades, but for the Immediate present browns In all the smart woman who carries a gun, even If she usee It not. The points of the new sporting dresses are essentially different this fall, and they are not made entirely of the same material, a pleasant change being observable In a judicious mingling of plaids and plain fabrics or In harmonising colors In solid surfaces. A brown and white cheek In a loosely Evening ation ) Charming eve., .reatlmiofM.tVonhl;?.1' tlculariy dainty CHr ,'J fashions the smart little walctcoat that is In nialines net and Id. butioua over a shirt of while linen. The neck is arranged with the now decreed panel effect on the skirt is 'a, turnover linen collar and aiuall bow tie. And the list, that moat important consideration! Well, It was the jauntiest little bit of an affair, canoe shaped, done in white felt, banded with brown velvet and further trimmed In the back with two fetching bows where the brim turned up in high indentations. Another costume of this genre was a white frieze in conjunction with pale blue leather trimmings. ' It is hardly necessary to add that this dainty effect will be wont exclusively by a woman who merely affects siort. The hints I have given you are only fashion forerunners of the great army of. modes that will soon be on the murclu .and it is well to heed the advance guard, fur we are all familiar with the women who condemn the last cry from Faria, but who In a few months are only too glad to succumb to a ghost of a copy and be thankful.' Bite who hesitates over a new sartorial idea la often lost. CATHERINE TALBOT. t1 Wr. it ,.' The Elderly Waaaeaa Dress. .Mothers of families ere too apt to consider that their appearance is of email importance. The girls, of course, they wish to have aa pretty clothes aa they can afford to give them, but, say they, "Who will notice what I wear?" so they are careless about the neatness of their shoes, the fit of their gloves, ths fineness of their handkerchiefs, etc, end present anything but a dainty and smart appearance. Now, all this Is s mistake, and it la a worse mistake for the matron than it la for the spinster, for It Is likely to lessen the happiness of those whom she loves best When we look at a fresh young girl we often notice her likeness to her mother, and when we see the mother dowdy and draggle tailed a vision cornea before ua of what the daughter will be at the same age, and the vision la unpleaalng enough to scare off any man who waa just awakening to a aenae of her charms. The vision may be prophetic or not, but all the same It has influence and therefore It la wrong of the mother not to be aa well dressed aa she can rightly afford to be for her childrens sake. That she will thus also give pleasure to her husband la a consideration which should make the trouble entailed seem very well worth while. ia in means of two rowa of burnt settee with long ends caught wlthwaT uients of amber. The closely swathed bodice of has the same orange allk bow. ka 77 ranged artistically at one side nrt,JiC with roaea of a tawny tint. Thedarrw are drop affairs composed ofk flounces. Tho Mew Warns s la Jsgsa. Until just lately Japanese wmmi atoyed at lionte, where they patted hither and thither ae they tended their sparsely furnished houses and logfau exceedingly pretty In their brightly orod kimonos. But times have chug and things are moving quickly In if pan. The dainty kimonos are bro laid aside for the more businesslike dress. Boon there will be a more daya set apart to admire and Joy the fruit blossom, and the busy little ladles are preparing to desert Oak lovely gardens and the cultivation d their glorloue chrysanthemums. We may well ask why they should 1. am The foot la that the western long. Ing for work and independence boo reached our Japanese sisters. Jio logger content with caring for the tt plants and tending the silkworms, they are to be found as clerks in tlie stop and railway stations. They are interested In education and poeeeaa their own colleges wbm they can take, their own dcgis Equality and freedom aeema to lie before them, but perhaps after x tluk while they will long to be back ipii amid their flowers and sunshine, tor away from the stress and strain of I busy life which la In many cuaea tlrely self Imposed. A Quint Profession, Among the latest professions in Paris la that of masseur and orthopedist to dogs. Judging by the following price list. It aeema to be fairly profitable: Putting wrinkles on bulldogs' faces, (0 franca; making straight tails curly, 20 franca; making bulldogs fore pawa crooked, 100 francs; removing superfluous hairs (by the hour), ( franca; making drooping ears erect, 20 francs; cutting tails, aa desired, 20 franct; changing color of coat, SO franca. The value of a fruno being 20 cents. A Wedding Caatoas la Japan- It will be seen that a fashionable PariThere la a pretty custom connects! sian dog la rather an expensive luxury. with a Japanese marriage which Europeans might well copy. Instead d Aa Un From Japaa. sending wedding cake, aa we western Instead of an engagement ring tbit era do, the Jupa distribute to tbd Japanese lover givee hla sweetheart g friends sugar flowers beautifully mek piece of beautiful allk for her sash, j and delicately colored. dpppdpdppddpdppppdjdddddddddddddpppppppppppppddddd a single spurt meiit Is to be for if Juinbled In s heterogeneous mass tlie result will be no more sallafactory titan s collection of pieces In s furniture shop. There Is no character, no originality; only a motley collection of things The skillful srUst Juiows well that In decorating and furnishing s house harmony of color snd form are the first essentials, snd the collector of the anin mind that a piece of furniture tique should have her walls decorated Ibear never be selected lrresieclve of with regard to the furniture for which differences in Its style that la. they are to form s background. when fur-nlah- ed HINTS FOR THE FALL SEARCHER AFTER ANTIQUE FURNITURE taste for old chins, silver furniture hue almost Into a passion of late years, II luis suddenly become ths fashion to have curios of nil kinds in the hum furnishings, Therefor1, es a demand al why create a sumiiy, there are to be found on tlie iiunkct hundreds of masterly Imltatlnux of the work of the great arllHla In furniture. Home of these imUuiiona are open ami e, aboveboard reproductions of Hie but oilier ere such saereaMful imitation of uneient furniture that 11 is neeessary to be very wide awake if one inedltalrs purchasing siieclineua of the old rrufisnian's art, Tlie coaras and rotiKh Imitations that are seen In sncnnil rale simps every day never deceive tlie searcher after the antique, but really first clans work limy easily impose upon even tlie elect, and when it becomes known reasonably that there are skilled workmen who make u business of liuilalltig worm holes in modern furniture it proudly lilosaoms forth la become tlie Joy of the Imtoreni amateur culleetur of the antique. It is usually at this lime of the year that the housewife is seised with the spirit of refurnishing her home or adding by way of adornment a few new pieces. If the antique is her special choice the following suggest Inns may iw of IntereM. Tlie modest buyer is a bine being considered, she who would spend at the very most a hundred or so dollars mi a cabinet. Utile nr desk. There is a kind of sham too popular nowadays, and of all sh.iins it is the most dangerous to buy old wood, pos-silloi fronts f drawn a or ikiiicIs nf cupboards, and mingle the old anil new to the confusion of the uninitiated, HoiuctiiUfM have the honesty to say that good or this description sre made up urtldes, sml often these Itee-- s are quite worth adding to one's collection the wood in their consltuetion Is well seasoned snd the grain fine and exquisitely colored. When a is the object under consideration it is well to open tlie drawers and Inspect the lining. If the article Is genuine they will be lined with oak or elm, but if a modern et are the lining win be merely plain, stained deal. Other evidences of the real tiling are tlie weight and the doweling. which in uid furniture is peculiarly done. But all these signs fall w lien Hie genius of perfect deception abroad. One simple tiling to notice is the state of the polish. It should he but oti perfectly smooth, and th - T1IE ue s-- v a s lm-pu- v:-- i blending of the two styles resulted later In furniture of the Queen Anne type. Queen Anne chairs are exquisite. They have a strong undergraining and a high, flat, decorated back and sidepleces of rather severe form and the cabriole leg. i Borne of the chairs are three cornered, rather like a etool with arms. Chippendale, Hepplewalte, Sheraton and Adame ere ell specimens of furniture very much sought after now. either ee originals or in reproductions, Sheraton sideboards end bookcases are beautiful with the swan Impedimenta and quaint diamond paned effects In the doora. The fad of the moment ie fat old door knockers, and If a woman Is seen rushing from one antique shop to the other you may be sure she ha this fad and is on the chase. Really old door knockers are scarce. They are being copied, it ie true, but the manufacturers ere not able to duplicate the battered denied appearance of the knocker that for many years In sun and rain hae stood as sentinel at the door. An objection to the modem knocker la that they are very much of s pattern, and there la no impress of the workman's skill and, lit a measure, of his humor at the time tlie work was done. The particular pattern the searcher Cor old knockers wants Is the lion's Jiead, which Is likely to be found In the Venetian knocker. There are other patterns of flat, plain brass tlrnt are well liked as a second choice. When one Is not successful in a search of this kind an expedient worth knowing la to buy a new knocker and bury it In the ground until it becomes green and moldy. After thfa burial one clever girl has hit upon the Idea of giving the knocker to her small brother to ploy with. Bhe did not tell him what the hoped to accomplish, but In these war times it Jg quite possible that the knocker will go through many mork battles aa some piece of ammunition, and when It returns to the owner It le aura to have enough dents te satisfy the fastidious sister. When the whole family Is enthusiastic on the subject of antique knockers this precious specimen goes on the front door. There is a erase just now is usually that uf some picturesque fo- for the Individual door knocker which hangs on the oak of tlie antique lover's liage mingled with tulips, roses snd own domain. Luckless the Individual mabirds. In addition to wood, other who gains entrance without using this terials, such as Ivory and mother-of-pea- rl are employed. This Dutch furni- coveted piece of antique open sesame! EDITH LA WHENCE, ture was Introduced Into England during the reign of 'William and Mary snd Tessa rataro ef the sth. has descended to us In the simpler and later phase known as Queen Anne. Opinions differ ss to the relative merThis seeming confusion of names was its of a cold or e hot bath. The indibrought about by tbe practice of using vidual, constitution must be consulted. the names of royalty to denote styles Medical authority maintains that chilboth In furniture snd architecture ss dren and elderly persons ought never to supplying more convenient dates than bathe In water below 70 degrees F. the beginning and end of a century. Where cleanliness la the main object This quaint snd simple' Queen Anne the water should be from 72 degrees to furniture is a curious blending of 9S degrees. Where the bath la to serve Dutch and French influences. The Inas a powerful stimulant as in cases of lay is of Dutch adoption, and the cabri- Illness; It should be from OS degrees to ole leg is an entirely French feature. A 113 degrees. Could anything be more absurdly grotesque than the placing of a piece of French art in a room decorated In the Dutch style? Still decorative errors, perhaps of a less glaring nature, are met with on every hand and In homes of culture, more's, the pity! ' The French style of furnishing will he very popular this winter, my lady needing this setting for her Louis XVI. and llenrl IL go urns. An especial prise In French examples Is the Boule furniture, which Is particularly happy In Its Andre Charles cabinet specimens. Iloule was the cabinet ntuker or ebo-nls- te to Louis XIV, and the first and most characteristic work connected with the style of tlie "le grand inon-arqIs known ss Boule. The Boule Is an ebibnrate kind of marquetry Inlaid with tortoise shell,' brass. Ivory and ebony, the origin of which can be traced to Indian. Perslarf and Damascus Incrusted inlaya Examples of Boule work are now very valuable snd command high prices when they are offered for sal. The Inlaid Dutch furniture resembles somewhat the Boule. but Is quite within the bounds of the modest antique purchasers sphere. The rich snd bright colors of different woods are used In the marquetry, and the design nlsb should not seem to carelesuly run Into the rniiirr. Another evidence is that the edges are comparatively soft and rounded ly wear and not sharp or e clrurly cut. lit spile of ihe wldesprenil liitcrcxt snd knowledge In furniture mol art generally there Is a great confusion of idea as regards styles. Just In the same way th.it collectors of antiques persuade themselves that bee a use s thing is old it must lleceaaarily be beautiful, so (here are those who think that to rnufnrm to a certain style Is slavish and lucking In a French originality. To such sly le iminedbitely conjures up surlanda and gilding, while we know that this cxpreNslnit of art can exist without any of tln-- a and Mill be Hue in character. Whs I in house furnishings should re.dly be Inki-- lo mean Is vhataeler. and an acceptance of those rules which tlie rxiuTlenre of ponturie li.ia proved the best, yel allowing woH! fur individual requirements. The collector of antiques should also m- e bow-knot- s, sie THE KINGDOM OF WOMEN. Lace yokes cut square at tbe neck rose setln with its ends embroidered in ere mure apt to be becoming than those flour de li. Two hu e gutines that are V shaped or round, but all gulden this gown. One showed three styles are equally smart. The accompanied louche of rose ami gold and the other dress may be built up to the reek or of blue and silver. the lace yoke left without the collar is In u recent auto boat race off Scu most attractive. tiMle. Coney Island, the winner and the A pretty pale blue liberty raBtl most daring sml skllirul sailor was s worn with a white chiffon gwn h.nl its girl only nineteen lit I, n ('.ndidvilk of ends embroidered In darker blue aiik i Ihllndelphid. The r.n-- was nude in u outlined with silver trace, le,. Another Sash fur the sunie gown wus of hfcht Sale so cadent lh.il , Icv.'ii drew out of the raie ni-- n (m-peHt- WWXM'S jllomnuie PoorKnoiKffl and did not start. Three other motor boat entered the raging water with Miss liodshnlk's. the Xudn, but only one nf them finished. Calcutta water coolers are carried by many travelers who dread from past experiences a constant change of water. The coolers ure ho useful fur the sickroom and for persons who live in furnished apartment where Ice water is not providl. There aie a giv.it many lu:!e hr.lronm fails in 'ouuti'x that Indicate the know Ivdxe and suvoii f.ilre Venetian Roor Knocker of up to dale housekeeping. One of these is to leave the soap which Is placetl In a guest room in Its wrapper, to iiiilii-ntthat it has never been used. There are small, daintily wrnped cakes of soup for the purpose with Its perfume ImltcMted by the' flower on the cover violet, rose, heliotrope, etc. A lii lie orange or lemon Juice put on the blacking brush after It ha been dlppe! in the blacking or polishing cream will give s brilliant shine to the bools nr shoes. Wait-in wlmh potatoes have been e r boiled Is very effective in keeping silver bright. It can be bottled for use, and if required to be kept a long time a tenth part of methylated spirits will preserve It. The high crown seems to be coming In space, though many of the outing hats are still quite flat. ing grown accustomed to the comfort of tlie soft stock. Every one knows that stiff collars destroy the beauty of the thrftat. The toughest meat can be made tender by putting a tablespoon ful of vinegar In the pot while boiling. II hosting. baste with vinegar solution. I ace storks, berthas and collars ere The skirts with shoulder straps atmade to match the gown, and among tached are not for children's clothes the popular ones are the Hardanger only, but can be used to advantage on embroidered sets. any gown. The sirara should be made I.lnen collar are being revived. of the same goods ss the skirt and fasuonitrii will deplore ihe fact, hav ten la a bell of like material. These -- VARIOUS - - or WAYS - SERVING VEAL CUTLETS AND MACARJ One ' pound snd s baff d veul cutlets, three ounces of bat ter, half a pound of tomatoes one SI a quarter of a pound of macaroni and some slices of bacon. Trim and mum the' cutlets, flatten so that they an rather thin and dip each into u off beaten up with a teaspoonful of botim ! Arrange the cutlets side by aid butter,1 stewpan with the rest of the previously dissolved. Bet over s to s, Are, let. the cutlets cook far ten ' then turn eech snd sllov tu tbo k sqine time for the other. Blew mstoes with a little water, PPI1 salt and mash them to a pulp. idfM boiled macaroni. Let all stu few minutes and garnish tHf with It. On each cutlet beta Kf put a small, thin slice of fat boom T Naples Veal. Two pounds cutlet, two ounces of lean bacon ounces of breadcrumbs, on egg, herbs, pepper end salt, two ounces oum butter, a teacupful of stork, four of macaroni. Take two pound cutlets and remove the bonaflat--ley a veel on a board, pressing It cnop-pe- d force meat of two ounces ol lean bacon, a tablespoon chopped parsley and sweet ltero, per and mlL Bind with then spread evenly over the bum meat, sew the edge and then firmly with a tape. Melt t the of butter In a stewpan. dredge with flour and put It in the pun. quite browned add a tescupfulol and stew for two hours ss g" of possible. Boil four ounces In the In sailed. water and piece and stew for twenty the the veal on a hot dish with ronl round. Garnish with tomatoe slices of lemon. Veel Kidney a te Rob-- A terg kidney, one smell onion, mi, ounces of butter, one glw 01 p half wine; pepper end eslt, veal gravy, half a doxen French rooms, a squeese of lemon Julca beans; Take a large veal any fat or skin from It- - ttt ,lnnrWfr. slices and season with salt a mu Chop finely a little porsey. Ion, and fry In two ounces a saucepan. Next add the fry quickly for a few minute brisk Are. Stir during the proM a x frying and moisten wllhrtdw white wine. When It has tie add nearly half a pint f thlch gravy, half a doxen sliced " ll and a good squeese f lfr""JTe cook gently for utee. Arrange the Wdneys t ? ter. with boiled French beans to VEAL mh-ute- tne-th- e -i M straps are especially "mr since they a'lowt, tne waists without or scheme of skirt end bodiceHot water will take out of fruit stain from linen. feot soon. But the stained Ptac of lhe be washed prior to the use rib- water. When washing m bon add one teaspoonful of rirSr spirits to e pint of coMand It ... jod the ribbon through, quite new. gowns, cy ',r |