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Show SUMMER DUST AND RAIN COATS COMBINE UTILITY AND STYLE --i Vl- wL!. W ,V Mvvv- r"--? . .. t 1 v-- :s . ' V V, VV r .SLYJi s- . - r. , v. - J.nv, t ... j w Traveling coat of silvery (ray Shantung By ANNETTE ANDERSON. woman who yearm for an with iti of fetching coats, caps and veils, may at least indulge in the luxury of the coat with perfect propriety, for the summer dust and rain coats follow in material, design and general effect the popular, Incidentally, eutomobiling wraps. all is water proof, yet supple as silk. Those who have watched the evolufabrics can hardly tion of water-proo- f believe their eyes as they study the cravenettes brought out this season. waterHarking back to the proof serges of thirty years ago, the odorous mackintoshes of ten years back and the first bunglesome cravenettes of two or three seasons ago, it seems hardly possible that modern looms could fashion anything so taffetas and dainty as the water-proo- f It is difficult Shantungs of THE to-da- y. UP-TO-DA- IS not only interesting, but really astonishing, to learn the number of uses to which handkerchiefs may be put in the way of needlework. The chief inducement to use them lies in the fact that a small amount of work can accomplish a very dainty IT FIG. I. result. Fig. t shows a very artistic dressing jacket composed of five inches twenty-fou- r handkerchiefs square. They may be of silk for a smart jacket, and some very pretty weight of heavy broadcloth, and the and roomy. rut is square, box-lik- e The fronts are designed to be thrown back as lapels, or in case of storm they can be closed in a double breasted effect, the rolling collar turning up as a storm collar. Deep, turn-bac- k cuffs can be rolled down to protect the hands, and big. slanting pockets are fastened into the front pieces. The only decoration is a binding on pockets, cuffs, collar and around, the entire garment of black patent leather. With this comes a white automobiling cap, edged with the leather, but the garment could also be worn for sailing. A Broadway actress recently astonNew York by apished pearing on a showery April day in a white storm coat, bound with black patent leather, but the design was less severe than the one described above and more suited to the American taste for chic, natty effects. The business woman still clings to the cravenette, but revels this season in its light weight. A coat which would do for traveling or to discriminate between them and the ordinary dress silks until one asks rain coat the price, for the is almost as costly as an evening wrap, but infinitely more useful. The life of the modern woman actually demands a wrap of this sort. Where the men go, she goes also, and she needs the same sartorial comforts. She tramps across country with her husband or her brother, she accompanies him on record-breakin- g automobile runs over all sorts of roads and through all sorts of weather, and she travels and shops without studying the sky if she nas the garment, a rain coat. The rain coat proper covers its wearer from collar to dress hem; but some smart summer models are three-quartlength and are designed for automobile trips, or where a rubber blanket supplements the porous An illustration of the three-nuartcoat mines straight from a Rond street shop, and suggests race track trips in automobile or atop the coach. The mapopular terial is ivory white cravenette, of the er lap-roh- e. er for stormy weather downtown is fashioned on simple hut 6tylish lines. Soft cravenette in olive tint covert is employed, and the garment is fitted smoothly over the shoulder with a cape cap. A shaped strap forma the collar, and the same strapped effect is used for belt and cuffs. The sleeves are of medium fullness and gathered snugly into the narrow cuff. Side pockets and buttons covered with the material of the coat complete the simple garment. A trifle more ornate, yet admirably suited to the woman of simple tastes, is the syndicate traveling coat with its shirred girdle, outlined by a silk cord. Covert cloth of rich tan color was employed for this garment, which is really in two pieces, blouse and skirt, with the junction hidden by a cord in the same tint. Both the bottom of the blouse and the yoke of the skirt sections are shirred, and the top of the sleeve is set into the arm's eye with shirring. A double cape, heavily stitched and a pointed cuff finish off a really useful and fashionable coat. These covert ornaments are par- - dull-color- four-in-ha- colors and designs may be obtained; or they may be cotton or linen, with colored borders. The twenty-fon- r inch size is the best for an ordinary figure, but if a large jacket is required it is better to use the twenty-seve- n inch handkerchief. One is used for the back, one for each sleeve, and one for each half of the front. They are all placed with corners to the neck. Each side of the back one and the side of each front one are joined to those for the sleeves in the following manner: From three inches below the top corners the edges are either sewn together on the inside, or one is laid just over the other 'and feather-stitche- d on the right side for thirteen inches down, from which point they are allowed to hang free. The sides of the front and back handkerchiefs are joined together for four and a half inches from the lowest points upwards, forming a very short and low ' underarm seam. The top corners are allowed to fold over and form a scalloped collar, and the front edges may be made to fasten close up to the throat or to form a One or V," as in the illustration. two pleats are stitched at the point where the fastening is desired, and ribbons are sewn on for the purpose. This jacket may easily be completed within a half hour's work. It is extremely comfortable for a room neglige or for dressing one's hair, the arms having absoiute freedom of movement. Another dainty use of pretty small handkerchiefs with straight borders is for a corset cover, which most readers will have seen. Two handkercltirfs are required. They are cut in half crosswise, front one corner to another. One-hapoint lf set on, making eight points insteal of forms the back, one-haupward point downwards forma each siJe, and four. By the same means circular frills the remaining half point upwards may be made for any undergarmeits. The dusting hood is made of one very cheap and either colored or handkerchief. The two corners of one side are put together, ind one-haof the edge is feather-stitche- d over the other half. This forms the hood; then two or three small pleats are folded, the edges away from the join, on each side of the top, and are feather-stitche- d as illustrated. The back of the neck ia pleated and ornamented ia the same FIG. 2. The corner! are then folded way. also feather-stitcheforms the front, which is cut down the up as illustrated and are or they may be left down, ii middle from the point. They are joined by an insertion, preferred. Fig. 3 shows a pretty work bag narrow or wide, according to the size of two silk handkerchiefs. composed added are the Insertions to required. colored ones with front and neck edges, the latter finish- Oriental or bright should te chosen, ed with a beading, through which a Oriental border! be to the size and the according may is ribbon run, and lace edging. The waist is finished with a ribbon insertion. The fastenings down the fronts between the ribbon drawstrings at the top and waist are by means of small fancy pins. Shoulder straps of ribbon or insertion and edging are set on to fit. There is more work in the foregoing than there is in most of the handkerchief articles, but it makes an exceedingly dainty gift, as for such a decorative handkerchiefs garment would naturally be chosen. Fig. 2 illustrates a sleeve frill composed of a handkerchief, from which a circle is cut the size of the sleeve edge. If desired, very full and soft handkerchiefs are employed. Two may be used, each having a circle cut out, and then, cut through by a straight thread at the narrowest parts, they are joined together and gathered or pleated to be i'-idin- n Mil lamia v )iHif liliiiia iMtuir f I heir wn, I Theie are The automobile is suet a modern institution that it is haitly possible to imagine superstition bing already connected with it. Amng modern car drivers in England, hwevet, there is a curiou survival of n old bit of folklore. In many cars is susynded a perd forated stone, usually a flint with a natural bor This stone is supposed to act as a protective amulet. To be efficacies in warding off evil the hole mnst e naturally y or, as some people mntain, forced, m artificially bored. Belief in this stone's pwer is widespread. It is supposei to confer safety on the fastest trading motor car, and there is many a seedy driver who in his heart ascribes is immunity from accidents to the anp- power of the perforated pebble sea-rolle- 00.009 Italian In' ing. - M Die lii'Kiiiiiinp nf the last lisi.il ' lit. "I Kit i u:; !' HI Hit Kit Mlltl pro- - IN ifLU'It'lilK n, For the square case, the handkerchief is first lined with satin, which may either be neatly along it by the outer edge, or it may be feather-stitche- d with silk from the outside. Three corners are folded to meet, and the edges may either be closely fagoted or sewn on the inside. The lace ii turned back, as illustrated, the fagoting looks well over it, apparently holding it back. A button is sewn on and a loop worked to the overlapping corner for the fastening The glove case is made to match, only two straight sides are joined together nearly all the way up, leaving small corners to be turned back to enable the gloves to be laid in the case easily. The two- edges at the other end are, of course, secured together. It is not necessary to have these handkerchiefs lace edged, and it is better to choose those that have straight sides. If scalloped handkerchiefs are used, it is necessary to cut the satin square and arrange the handkerchief edges over it, filling up any gap with fpgoting or a fancy stitch. For a gift, one of these sets is most acceptable, especially for traveling, as the cases, while quite adequate for the purpose, do not take up the room that leather, silver or wooden ones do. Such a gift Ihight be accompanied by two little baga for soiled handkerchiefs, each made of two cheap little embroidered ones. These are stitched together around three sides, with the slip-hemm- ed FIG 4-- size of bag desired. One handkerchief is laid diagonally on the other one, so that the points are all equal. The upper one is then stitched or feather-stitche- d on to the other, leaving all the points free, and the stitching line forming an octagon. A circular piece is then cut out of the top handkerchief; the edge is bound with narrow strips made from the piece cut out, or with narrow ribbon; rings are sewn on to the edge, and two ribbon drawstrings are run through the rings. Small brass bells or ornaments are sewn on to the corners, to keep them down as well as for decorative purposes. If desired, a pinked-ou- t piece of some texture suitable for carrying needles or pins may be set tinder each corner, and secured with the stitching. Two large bandanna handkerchiefs How Babin Cry When They Are 111. Mothers are often worried as to what the cries of their infants mean when they seem to be sick or in pain, and frequently are apt to diagnose the case wrongfully. As a matter of fact, when an infant is dangerously ill it seldom cries, so that when it begins to cry a great deal during a severe illness it is usually a sign of amendment When a child suffers from inflammation of the lungs it moans, but rarely cries. When suffering from bronchitis the cry is gruff and rattling. When suffering from croup the cry is it is sharp and fretful. When hungry it ia fretful and wailing. super-naturall- t .irly o stitched on the blouse, and buttons covered with Shantung. The sleeve is of medium size, gathered simply into the arms eye, but shirred into the cuff. The correct hat for such a coat is a tailored effect in natural straw, trimmed with straw in a contrasting tint, such as brown or green, with ornaments of straw or velvet ribbon and tiny gilt buckles. Much more dressy and suggestive of smart coaching trips are the black taffetas in rain-profinish, also cut on synidcate lines, showing shirrings of the blouse low enough to simulate a girdle, and the sleeves elaborately shirred. A full cape has an edge and made in this way form a nice stocking or household workbag, and smaller ones are handy for holding a duster, always a convenience in a room. Fig. 4 illustrates glove and handkerchief cases made of two pretty handkerchiefs, embroidered and trimmed with Valenciennes insertion and edg- d, a Cravenette covert in olive green. a yoke made of heavy passementerii Mohair and alpaca of silky finisl but not rain proof, are also much cm ployed for traveling coats. The nri ous shades of gray are notably pope lar with middle aged women, whili pongee, in natural tone, is liked h young matrons and young girls. TV real bachelor-mai-d goes in for th most mannish of cravenette-cover- i effects and has her soft Alpine hal for stormy days. 'The light vegii traveling coat, once the much despised duster, is enjoying a decided revival this season and will be sndi seen by tourists to the St. Louis E position. POSSIBILITIES IN HANDKERCHIEFS lf marry again after the death of his wife, but it is commonly agreed that a year is the very shortest permissible period. Even that is considered much too short in most good social circles, and there is a general agreement that a widow ought to wait twice-- as long before she marries again. It' is considered exceedingly bad taste in England for a widower to talk about bis loss during the period of mourning, except immediately after the event, or to his closest relatives or most intimate friends. A greatrr latitude is permitted to the widow in this matter, and there i not such a strong feeling in regard to these post mortem references in this country as there is in England. It is. of course, in bad taste for outsiders to refer to the subject when the bereaved person A Great Difference. is present. There is a great difference between A widow or widower should never attend a wedding while in mourning, doing the thing which is sensible and even if it is the wedding of a relative that which is merely spectacular. It or friend, but they are under the same - ra-- y enough to play farce comedy send a - always a good deal of con- obligation Tlir.-present ii i something entirely d'lfcrcnt to cIm. as play a comedy which is real. man anybody a soon may troversy as to how rjtfilllh.'' of color-border- The latest fad of fashionable people since the outbreak of war in the Far East is the use of the favorite Japanese perfume named the water lily incense. It is commonly used in all the homes of Japan, as well as in the Buddhist temples, but it has only recently been introduced into this country. and is now being sold in all the Japanese storrs in the big cities. It is done up in little cakes, and burnt like the familiar Chinese joss stick so well known in many American homes, but it has a far more delicate and aromatic fragrance. Doctors say that it is specially valuable as a disinfectant in the sick room, for which purpose it is extensively used in Japan. The etiquette for mourning on the part of widows and widowers in the United States is based upon that of England, which is probably the least rigid of any civilized country. On the Continent the observances in good society arc much stricter. The following rules may be taken as the minimum required by decency in this country and in England: The wdower should never go to the theatre or to any festive social function within six months after the death of his wife. He should wear mourning for a year at least, but it is not in good taste nowadays to make it elaborate or obtrusive. In England it is ued in good society to confine the outward semblance of grief to a broad Mark band around the left sleeve, a neck-lie- . hand around the hat and a black uila had ticularly suited for traveling through mountainous or far northern countries, or for chilly days on the beach walk. Fo. warmer days and climates, and for general traveling purposes, there is nothing better than rain-protaffetas or Shantung. The smartest of these are built on the design described above, and known as the syndicate coat, being distinctly in two parts, moulded into one, with the blouse and the skirt yoke shirred into a slender line, marked by the silk cord. A silvery gray Shantung is copied from a Parisian model, and has no decoration save an applied design of the Shantung silk to simulate revers, lf Water Lily Incense. SOME HINTS ABOUT MOURNING IIP VKfflf Syndicate traveling coat colored cravenette covert. TIPS FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER TE BY ROSA E. PAYNE. Olive green taffeta syndicate coat with passementerie trimming. Silk. A Ballad of Stoiciam. How doth the little busy bee Do everything all right. He gathers honey all day long And stores it up at night. And as we watch his (i u.ie Msa KuiiM'Mn !i-- 'l buy-nes- s iui ssnii knn' a ue ilm t'lfclM - 111 !ll t lif Til FIG. S- - REGULATING THE BABY'S SLEEP The young mother is usually distressed because she thinks her baby sleeps too much, but she worries herself unnecessarily. For the first three months an infants time, provided it is in good health, is almost entirely spent in sleep. It wakes when hungry, and. being fed, goes to sleep again. For the first two months it should be given an extra amount of bed covering, more than twice as much as is needed by an adult, because an infants power of generating heat is very feeble. After two months, the covering should be reduced, and particular care should be taken that it does not cover the childs face. Little noise or talking should be allowed, because even if it does not wake the child, it renders the sleep drturbed and unrefrehing. The room should be kent quiet and g the daytime by drawing the blmds or clo'ir.g the shutters. Jh? length of time required for .cp qr?il'i.illy get, le-- s as the child becomes older, but until the growth dark-durin- We think wed like to do The things that arc cut out fur us But i don't care do you? exception of an inch and a half at the starting and finishing points. The fourth side has a strip of mnslm hemmed ipside, through which ribbon drawstrings are run. A pretty table center or tray cloth may be made of four handkerchiefs joined together with insertion or a fancy stitch and edged all around the outside with lace. In the same way, pretty bureau acarves and pillow shams may be made, individual originality revealing itself in the manner in which the handkerchiefs are seemed together and arranged. A pretty apron may be made by' using one handkerchief for the center, then folding two others comerwise, and cutting an oval out of the centers to put them on as a frill, much in the same way as that already mentioned. ui . UUiliii) 1. fiMf) dccbi-atiot- t IlHA lilHflA Him I'l'l'i-mlk-lli- s (f(i fill. , js complete a great deal more sleep is required than afterward. As iqnf as the sleep is sound and refreshra it is not too long and is required, W dosing between waking and does more harm than good. sleeping A Soothing Drink. Inflammation of the throat and tonsils is a common complaint at this son of the year. A soothing drink for persons so affected is made by boilinf a teaspoonful of isinglass in half a pint of mifk with half a dozen bruised almonds and sweetened to taste. This drink has a marvelous effect It reducing the inflammation. widely used in England, but it not commonly known in this country- Bulgarian Embroidery. Bulgarian embroidery w now bent utilized for belts, with mountings o in Wd. A belt of lis. 'I embroidered edge and and tints Bulgarian pattern, wiih narrow, stitched bands of is leather, especially striking for a linen shirt waist suit. NiitinihScr ia lea. Can i&mj railways In Inc |