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Show PARTi 'TAj'HTONS- c dm Jti and v iff? ten. v. v- im 1 WW X W X . sM-K'J. ' . V If? mmmfmm :&-J 4 Front Vicv cf Blue Sere Costume " Iv.uZ ' .Yy-A.- J - ; '. Photo .Vp-rislit. TWO. by lU'iiilin?)'. r-"iS".V-:J ' K.clu?Uo Cupyrlslit, lltio, New Wk M '. r;-' -'- 'A:vM. " rmST?:.. . -, - j " BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. THE firt i-ool tl.iys of rut vi mn in-vnrinMy in-vnrinMy aroimo intcr'-st jd tlio uovor or. l i rely tloruuint snbjof-t if drf;, aDd ovory wdtnan insilnr-livi'ly insilnr-livi'ly liotrios il.in:unc for tbo wioicr outfit. To m sm.irtly jrowned ia tho early prln and early autumn au-tumn tells troniondousslv, for it ninst lio I admitted tbe majority of women ore a hit lazy About starting in to order now rovri Ahead of time, ahvny deluding themselves them-selves with the idea that they will be ah!o to fiDd something re.dy made, nonie nnxlel rovtimie that will b just rizht, or thatj (heir favorite dres.Mnnl-.er will put allj oilier orders aside ro attenil to their demands or eoDimands. One of the mot Snd endent of mortal.- Is the suceossf ul dressmaker nt this sea-sfin sea-sfin f the year, for she realizes that Iter rlu-nts are quite af her mer-y and ofien, in eon;e.tieiK,e, niv willing to pay noy priee to eeiire something "lit to wear," ami the fusliiiu):il'le ilreNsuutkim: e..ih-lisliniems e..ih-lisliniems liave to work day aud uiKhl to turn out the ord rs that arc fairly hurled at them when the weather suddenly turn cold anil the lust spring's Fersje or chih e'tunie that has been depended npou for Scivind bet at least proves so lotnlly o of style from the latest l';ris informmi a hm lo be deemed ijiiiie iniuysil.le. It rer-f.iinly rer-f.iinly i-i a i,o woman who pivr-s her order well in advare-e and 'Cs at least her tailor street costume ready to put on the moment the thermometer drops to a seasonable rerord. The bhiek satin row us. Mith eoat to mat'h, or the coat and skirl with famv wa:t. that were so fasiiionable in F'.iris in the e.irly summer but were quite t'Ml wnrm to be worn in New York after the1 early p:irt of Ma, are ! be eeii t.ow j nflc-;.. .; : :v;rV -V: te.Yx;e,:v r'r 7';-y'!-yx.x.h : . Y; XX ; f S . : C!eWtM,,! Pl X;iX -X.' X X-: Y '-V XX ! Front of Black and White Velveteen fftx--'t " : " '''"C-r. : V'- ,"; .Costume jfi jMfVr-.r.; , v'Y; . 1 -r V.-' 'i-.Y' JXo'h'Iv...' Co,.jr'it. J'Jl'.'. New York k U. ' ( h", . ' ".- .' ' n-i'iii I oVy?- p; fell''''' - S 1n' Blue Serge Costume with Black Soutache' Braiding MalD lVe'colI rhoto CopyriRbf. 1910' b7'RatUo2f Exclusive CopyrJsbt... 101, w York lleml.J l" "" of tla- more elaborate tnnd'ls now ex-Inbiied ex-Inbiied in si-r'e tan be copied and elaborated elabo-rated on cloth or velvet. Velvet i.s fashionable thi.s 8rason, and not only sill; velvet, but corduroy and velveteen in all colors are in demand. Jniie a novelty i the stripeil velveti-en and velvet, the dark color with hairline of u bite, and made with rovers and cuffs of plain white iloth or velvet, it is be-eoiiiini: be-eoiiiini: to nimost every woman, Tho ob-tjection ob-tjection has been id.hIo that with the hairline hair-line of white the town is not so suitable J for afternoon end reception wear, but it lis more like corduroy, which does not rank with silk and ehitfon velvet- So smart and novel is it that the oojectioiiM raised will nut be lusting. The same model Is copied in plain black or color, with the ti-imniinss in either velvet or atin, while fumy buttons are an addition if not an im-! im-! proviiutut. I Velvet combined with cloth will, as has already been stated, be one of the most popular combinations of the winter. A cloth sown with a velvet oat is a most useful, practical style, nnd while the fashion at present calls for velvet trimming trim-ming on the skirt, the costume can be made with Velvet only in 1he coat. Tho finish of the skirt around the bottom bot-tom is carefully ' considered this season. The baud of contrasting material may bo iiuite wide or quite narrow, but a luud it essential. There mny l? one or two rows of broad braid, with a finish at either cdjjo of soutache, or there may bo only a band of the some -material as the ipjwii; if it is a figured ninttri.il the band is either bias or so arranged that the design de-sign is at a different angle, when tho nui-jtori.il nui-jtori.il is plain then there is a fold of Batin or velvet above the baud. This trimming breaks the too plain line of tho skirt when it Is made witJiout a tonic, for (he quite plain skirt is not fashiounble. Last year's pleated skirts are by no means hopeles, however. The inner X kv.-X"."'.'"' " -fiV'Uskli ' . . . vvv-'X-i V j,"-XXy :'X;S' r , , : ;:. . : - .. r . . '. ; y f;V.' .'.V: r'. -! r' '- ' : ' '. : "' , ''-&;.;'X';. ' ; .; XS':'X V ; i ;XX - fc2& ) ' " ' V ; vi'V-f.':.::','-- - : ..Vi-- . . .... vf';-, : :; i ; : . i t.-:.T''v.--7x;,X ' ... V;'.'..j Serge Costume with Soutache Eraid Photo CopyrlKht. 1!)K, by ltcu'tlion r Mauoo Becnca Lidusie C'opvrtht. 101U. Kw York UertO.I yJ S X ' BlacI: end White Velveteen Costume 'Ajri' 'v ' Pti..te r0"pvi !.:lit. rjH'. t-y iruinirer .VT'i.' I.claW.J .p;.rl-''t. KV, f.t York Ibtld I .i I 'most s-necessf nlly luade np in black satin and is now being copied m smooth cloth. A poiui worthy of nolo is that almost without exception any model go u made in satin c;in be toie.essf ully carried out in broadcloth, crifhmcrc de soie or chiffon vel- vet, but of the three materials the loth is the best. Most bountiful are tho i loths for this winter, fine in texture, with ja wonderful finish, warm and at the same Mm I j jjj GLOTH OOWS WITH SOITTACUE Dlt.Mt'lNO. I joidlar and .Jeep cuffs of fur are l.i i i.imi.g and can be transferred to cloth or velvei 'stu When .lolled. A ill. Willing i"- eoiisio,.it Losliiiili i ol ill. liss line )' .nit? or sill, voile made up w;lii s iN.-i" and lined with sntin. ibis is t 'oniric to be generally recommend. i. jbut the id'.M can bo worked out in ll. is.'tlin without the eiling ul no o. .!.- ie si.ie. Slr.ing.' fashions or il.-t.ii,, .l j trimming an; popular tin.-, v ason .... .ic- s lie" pi rmitled e..mliin.il:eu ot . 1 i et and fur ilh other nuit'-i i 1 1. an. I it .s interest ing to noie IkiW h. Hie oe i.f tl,-vivo! tl,-vivo! or fur lu-W lines ' ;in l e given ai.d ia model that would t'O iinne. .uuing In I raiisforiiied into one thU is both smart If 1 an. I ,ii;r;nlivi'. T'l.' long pliiu panel 'in. u the front and ill.- land around tho lower p.i: i. dr.. sl.irl can In- arr.ing d l. gno length h;le ll.il bai'ds and folds f A - ; .. a..Li ,:j.v naixo ijoW N. CKMl'ED CHIFFON WAIST. ;rav ci.'tit O'.'W.v. w ! j I t'WlU CUaTLMtl Willi ibli U.V.NUa. and will be worn until resUy cold weather begins, for fatin haB considerable warmth as n material and an intertilling In a jacket of the present style does not interfere in-terfere with its lines nor with its fitting well. lnvarrahly the riirt is short ami the jacket is of inedinui length, the skirt lieing narrow but not exaggerated; a bund arouud the heni or two bands at the sidei or across the bin-it to hold the fulness forj the upper part of the kkirl is not by any j ineann narrow, and a few gathers around the sides and tit the back are in fiushiou; the front of the skirt is plain and straight and tbe baud does not extend ucrobs the front breadth in inauv of the moilels. There is. however, gnat variety in ),-skirts ),-skirts and in the w.iy the band is put on One favoiiie design has a widu bund around the entile skirl; over this falls another much narrower band, wliie); directly di-rectly in front is turn-d back and forms a fold that reaches to the waist, gradually tapering off into a point; the sLirt is wider .than this second hand, bui the fulness is gathered iblo it. There U i.othing exaggerated exag-gerated abul lliio UioJcL which hai been. ''rriccable tailur costuiuos of serge, cheviot, chev-iot, or corduroy, is almo-t a matter of course iu tbe roiiiii euiollt of even tin. simplest ouilil, and this wiutoi is more i than ocr popular I'Jain and mixed materials ma-terials ale iu fashion, and there are many I mixed pmicrns in cheviot and homespun that are sonar! and attractive Tiio.se lab-rics lab-rics should always bo made up simpl. lic straight, nairow, not oxaggeraiodly Jirow skirt, the medium length coat, piof-rnbly piof-rnbly finale l.rc.isled, with turned down collar and small lowr. i always the best inoiJel; sleeves are ol" medium size, coat shape, nnd with a turned back cull; the cihIk nic tils), i.mable this season with no trimming. This same se ore style looks well in ruuglnscige, or heavy camel s hair or zibeline. all ot which are in stvle tui, winter. Serge costumes, and ospi-ciall.v the rough oao-, have been so popular f.-r so many nhs that it has been most jCmnluiiically declined they would ue rated old fashioned Ibis season. It is j Certain that tho less exaggerated!. lUilgU, wide -weave Is not so fashionable, but there are n number of extremely smart gowns of the skirt and coat order now being turned out of rough setge. I'r one thing, the narrow, plain skirt looks best i made iu the heavier fabrics, for pleats, land folds in heavy weight are clumsy and thick. There are many attractive dark blue am! black serge costumes of a inedi-' inedi-' II ril cord These are trimmed with black 'satin nnd with blai k soutache: not elaborately elabo-rately trimmed, iicmi; overt rimmed. Uu-y are siu.ul n ud Incoming; li vi seeiL'iyj practical than the heavier grades of material ma-terial and not o aggn-ssiuly t.iil"i-, made, they are umst popular Quite a coq'icltish touch is .ivoli by the ul-iq. iint.s ' satin i-c.irf, dark blue lined with lighter,' blue, w Im h Is sniiieiiiiies wurti as though part "f the coat. "! there is int ro.i need j some color in embroider. on the collar' and ou the front of the jacket. An one i tune light In, weight. Every indication is Inward a cloth winter, fur gowns for the house are being made in cloth, :i., arc-also arc-also the most obi borate Mrocl cost uuies. L'ntil winter begins the si i in costuni'-will costuni'-will be smart for Mlreel Aear. but as MWin is a material that has always been classed with summer labrh-s or with in-l door towns, to ma'.c the ..-it ,n t r. et gown j attractive there will be se n h ii ings ot fur and velvet. This is lo be a season ol ' fur and velvet anyway, and the broad baud ui'ouuJ the skirl, the larae thaw I put on skirt and waisl. with saccs bo-twis-n, if . arefiill a n ang'sl. will n A make Hie wearer .,,,U short and stout, but will give ;i steinb-r appoaraiice. This season sl.ort Url -wu seems d-stincd to u.eive more aticntion thai, usual, one reason being undoubtedly because be-cause short gowns are unprecodontedly fa-hioiiablo. In cms .cl.co tbe nnnibcr of short continues rci'i'i'-d is g.calci, and ll,.. re is a marked dilleieme In I ho si bs for morning and afternoon. The- practical pleats cm be taken out. some if not all or the upper part of the skirt oao bo it-the it-the pleat- stitched down, and then a ll-lic hand of cloth, .atin or velvet cau t P"1 around ihe bottom and the skirt tin jaiisformed and made up to date. |