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Show I i& i i Dfsiekia of fflSHioN i J" mm ' cl COPyRKyiT 1914 S CLARA - E SIMCQX g J35 -5AWE N y f?W WMi A llfffl I 44 Fjp HERE Is nothlnp new IBBg ' fafl hut that which Is suf-gSfc'Jtl suf-gSfc'Jtl fltfently old," sold not MHWrgj a fcea.t philosopher, lrT but a woman, the cou-llt7XI cou-llt7XI tunere of Josephine, UhiimmmAmm empress of the French. The fashions Of the moment are illustrating this axiom to perfection. In the new autumn styles there are Komau tunics, Oreek robe?, short medieval garments worn over Clinging skirts. Arabian scarfs and a host of modes that have been copied frro the oldest picture-- that hanp In the historic galleries of the Louvre. There is one thine that we may be thankful for. however that in the wildest inspirational dreams no mil liner or coiffeur has ever decreed a re-, vival of the eccentric headgear which disappeared only with the beginning , of the last century and which reached their most extravagant proportions during the middle ages. Before that time the veil or scarf had been almost a universal head covering, with an attendant at-tendant simplicity of beoddresslng Associated As-sociated with this modest style were loose, flowing garments which continued contin-ued to be made, more or less, as the classic ones had been, by beiug folded upon the person and then secured in that position (for as long as thev were not taken off) by -various devices. So long as the costume remained thus, a mantle of plasth folds, the taste of the world decreed that the head-dress should be in koeplnp. It was only after aft-er the dress of women began to be fashioned so as to retain the Impress of the tlcrure, that the bead-dress took On its absurd modes. I am alluding to the immense horn shaped head-dress made of velvet with a trellis work of silk cord, the style which scandalized the preachers and moralists of the time, who declared that the women w ho wore the horned head-dress were like Satan's horned beasts, and with great unction depicted their final descent de-scent into a region presided over by his Horn crown Majesty, Monsieur 1 DIable. Then later came that most cx-ceiitric cx-ceiitric head-dress of all ages, the "Kuf," a high powdered wig, upon which were perched several little figures, fig-ures, or a scene with birds, a windmill turning round, a shepherd guarding his sheep and other nonsensical adornments. adorn-ments. Let us be thankful, then, that history has not repeated Itself In the matter of bead-dresses. Nothing could be simpler than the present fashion of doing the hair, nor do the hats which cover our "coiffures" deviate from the scheme of simplicity in undue extravagance, the mode being be-ing to have our hats made of the rifhest of materials, but with a spar-sity spar-sity of trimming. The Chinese mode of doing the bair, which is the prevailing style, is at its best when the hair la arranged in soft waves, for the simplicity sim-plicity of tliis fashion demands something some-thing to soften its severity, and this softening can only be found in the well undulated hair, which is 6wirled over the head and fastened on top in a soft knot or slightly toward the back of the head in a becoming twist. Although Al-though the fashionable coiffure is very simple in itself. It can be adorned in the most sophisticated manner for evening: for instance, with a Tvhlte, black and silver gown which was 1 ery girlish in outline was worn an elaborate elabo-rate tuft of black heron feathers: another an-other feathered coiffure is two white herons placed in a silver band which encircles the head, the plume? fastened in it at extreme angles, one on the right being almost perpendicular and one on the left at a downward slant almost touching the shoulder. A study in simplicity sim-plicity is a coiffure bereft of every or- 11 ? namenl save a small triangle of jewels which flashes above the brow. A Diet of pearls set low on the brow and from V hich are festooned seer;il pear shaped pearls is one of the newest Jeweled Jew-eled ornaments to wear with the present pres-ent mode of dotng the hair. When the hair Is dressed very bigh a charming j fashion is to have Several fronds Of white paradise posed in a careless fashion in the hair. i A fascinating girlish mode of doing the bnlr can be seen in the model 1 am showing marked Fig. l in this instance in-stance an old painting has been studied with delight ful results. Tin-re are the soft tendrils of hair clustering round the forehead Just as we have always admired it In the charming pi. tore .if Mme Le Brum Very charming is the gown herewith Illustrated, it made of line f'hantllly lace over shimmering blue satin. The corsage Is a drapery of satin and tulle. The fabric arranged in a crossover effect In the front and drawn around to the bn k. where it is fastened with a voluminous tulle bow, and two satin streamers nre left to fall to the hem of the skirt. A bum b of rich velvet pansles are arranged just below the waistline. While mentioning pansles, I may state here that tboe pretty flowers, large and colorful, are very much In VOgUe As a trimming for hats they are delightful made either in satin or velvet. In iM.th these fabrics fab-rics they are ready at hand in tin-shops tin-shops in all the loveliest colors They are made in colors to which the natural flower Is quite foreign, but the deep purples pur-ples and plum shades are most beautiful beau-tiful Individuality, a quality that Is aimed for in woman's dress today, is now exceedingly marked In dress accessories. ac-cessories. Trimmings in the way of ln-ad and embroidered ornaments, motifs, mo-tifs, laces, nets, cameo buttons, etc always al-ways assuming that they are chosen Judiciously, give the supreme touch to the costume. The harmonizing combination combi-nation of color ami the unique originality original-ity of design mnko for very rich effo ts, In Fig. - 1 am showing a model in which the decorative scheme is a very beautiful embroidery, which Is ap-pliqucd ap-pliqucd onto the material of which the COStume is constructed. The gown is in taupe color drap do velours, a delightful delight-ful fabric with a rich, soft surface Tiu-re is a new tunic effect whli b Strongly suggests the Influence of the full cape with its godet flare This tunic is lined with taupe colored nlnon of a paler shade and the same transparent fabric over (learn mousseline Is used for the long sleeves aud vest The in ner vest is also of ninon and edged with a One silk braid and quaintly dec-orated dec-orated on one side with a row of but tons, the same as on the sleeves; they are taupe in color, with a filigree of cold. The hat worn with this costume is a draped black velvet toque, trimmed ou the side with an immense bushy j aother fantasie. In the other sketch Fig. I- I have portrayed n fascinating (town which can be utilized In many ways. It is Just the right frock for dinner at a restaurant res-taurant or at a hotel , for the rubber of bridge in the afternoon and tor a re. ep- tlon dress; it sounds the combination note of different materials and colors. It Is fashioned of blue velvet, a deep WedgeWOOd shade, blue charmeuse, tulle and gray lace. There is a triple overskirt. The upper I one of i harmeu -' is set in line gathers at the waist, falling to below the knees on the right and considerably .shorter on the left. This is veiled with a tulle overskirt of the same shade finished with a hem four inehes wide. Beneath this is a flounce of eoarse lace dyed a granite gray in shade. This is considerably consid-erably narrower than the tunic above, and one ts just a glimpse of the quit-narrow quit-narrow velvet underskirt. A velvet sash lind with mousseline is artistle- ally draped around the figure and (caught low In the back of the gown j with a handsome motif of blue and pray passementerie, The ends are fin shed with a blue silk fringe. The vol-,vet vol-,vet points of the waist are drawn up mtm n n hum I .. kino ,,11.-, nwA gray niou -M-lmc de soie. A cluster of faded pink roses and their attendant foliage Is tucked into the b.-lt. The bat Which Is worn with this gown Is one of the little French toques which win be so fashionable this coming season it Is In blue velvet to match the skirt and is trimmed with a profusion of blue ostrich os-trich tips which shade to pray the exact ex-act color employed on the gown. Velvet will enter very largely into the scheme of thlnps fashioned for autumn au-tumn wear. It will be used as a medium me-dium of development for some of the smartest of the new Jackets and basque modes it uiii be employed In divers ways and will give the chic touch to every sort of apparel. Evening gowns of net and tulle are exploited with bands of velvet ribbon edging the hems of full shirred skirts. Velvet will bo used as Bashes and for sleeve decorations, decora-tions, and narrow baby rlblion borders the hems of rutfles on the newest crinoline crin-oline skirts. V smart mode in which velvet is now put to Ifl shown In a charming little lit-tle afternoon frock. The model is of black tulle draped over white taffeta There Is a double tulle skirt bordered with a velvet ribbon With this is worn a sleeveless jacket of black velvet vel-vet finished with a sash of black vel-ret vel-ret ritilion, which drapes the front and is fastened at the back the same a.s the style illustrated in figure 3. The model has the tight fitting ruched sleeves which tonic down to the knui kles and which are attached to the chemisette worn beneath. Velvet Bl80 Is to figure largely in millinery. Velvet hats are the dirnirr cri. They are preferably black, although there are such contrasts con-trasts as burnt orange velvet, trimmed with the tall black feather and lined with black velvet. The rich imported velours will figure in the VOgUOS which are marshaled in array for autumn wear that is, if merchants can obtain their Invoices Which St the present moment mo-ment of writing the European war Imbroglio Im-broglio threatens to prevent This In one way is a serious handicap to a season just approaching and which promised to retrieve the losses endured by our Spartan-like wholesale merchants mer-chants during the past summer and spring. Then, on the other hand, this UCW phase of the situation may conceal unthought of helpfulness, however, when appearing in the darkest guise, for We make good silks and velvets in AmerlCS and We '"an adjust ourselves probably very well after all to this new condition of affairs. As for our gowns I it has been universally conceded that j American creations can very well hold their own with the French. The new tunic to be correct in line must be maneuvered with the utmost care or it will emphasize the regrettable regretta-ble points in one's figure. Its cut and adjustment are not by any means child's play. Science and experience to Insure its success must figure in its manipulation. In Fig. 4 I am showing a modified rajah tunic worn with an underskirt of old lace, lace to which time alone has given a soft, mellow tint The overskirt Is of black velvet lined with a soft satin to match the rich that of the lace. A peculiar bolero- il like effect is shown in the corsage, with 'B its high standing roll over collar and 'aillfl long rovers, which open over a plain jbbbbV vest of mou.sseline. This is in cream 'Bi satin, the same as the doublure to the WM tunic, and the revers, collar and novel little tabller on the skirt which is the IH termination of the draped corsage, are '1 embroidered in coarse cream silk out- 'H lined with a silver thread. Weighted L black tassels keep the two points in IB place B Following the mode for handsome sbbbbh hair ornaments are the emerald green IIB leather and jet spray fastened In the band of pearls which encircle the fore- head HR No matter how beautiful a gown is Km a great deal of its beauty will be lost B if the wearer does not remember that 'H it is fashionable now to "brace up." H The protruding figure and the slouch have gone quite out of style. Drooping ll shoulders, although they have been iH considered fashionable, could not have 'M been called healthful, and it Is a relief to those who have objected to the "con- iH sumptJv e pose" to know that a high jB chest and straight figure are once more to be most carefully developed Lbb Ever longer and longer grow tunica IB that are worn with certain toilettes un- HsV til it seems that only an Inch or two IH more were needed to make them into sssV oversklrts, hiding completely the skirt flsB beneath. This mode has already ap- IB peared, as I have described in one of 'my previous articles. The long, full H jtunlc is undoubtedly responsible for the step in this direction. Some women BkI insist upon exaggerated modes and Hk only seem to care for freak fashions, ssfla but fortunately the latest styles do not MB? lend themselves so easily to the gro Men tcsque. And the woman of stout figure Wmr can congratulate herself, if she Ls clever WKt1 enough to study the modes and master H& the art of Choosing Judiciously, that tho wWt new fashions will be becoming to her. 'VmL The closely swathed skirts which pre- vailed only a year ago are of the past. Bit while the new long tunics, with their Br full draperies and flowing lines, offer Hw' infinite possibilities in the way of be- Bi' coming adjustment, so tbut with cure BR' they con be arranged to suit those whose figures can no longer boast a BPc.- vouthful slimness. Then there Is a HBC'. ureat deal to say, too, concerning the 'Rp soft and subtle textures which are so Bffi- harai terlstli of the most fashionable Wm fabrics of the moment, textures which Bre, lend themselves SO admirably to the ar- Ho? I rangement of the graceful draperies KV and ruffles which are a feature of the autumn fashions. 1 H Despite the fact that many shops are Bp still eagerly awaiting the fall influx of K,.i . introductory modes and their co-adjust- ff ing Influence to assist them to n better m-. m-. ..miner, lal position, our own croa- , W Bj,;' tlons, when they emanate from the Arc hand of an artist, provide plenty of snr-torlal snr-torlal Interest to make up for any loss "p' " of the use of the Paris infusion of C-j'.. mode-. American women need not fear mB they will lack new and pretty frocks to Bp . wear In all probability the results Will P" be most surprising. L H |