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Show 1 1 I j nnL 51mco.x is americs J GREATEST DESIGNER $7 CREATOR OF FASHION ARIS. The French-IfjJ French-IfjJ woman is a prod--nflnrnHIfi r-TfL 111 c modernity JJffiPj KjMflV ' from tho crown of W a Weird lint or V bead-dress taccord- jreSpi I inp to tno ,lme L alt" KW 'J0 n-V' 10 e t0 I ly shod foot. Ami through it .-ill the K'. ,( vjjflfll mode of the hour -, X:p;'A -'bln'Ogli I'V nirn, in tho extreme styles tliore Is something ridiculous, extravagant and, ?es. I must admit at times shocking emerges wholly charming and piquant, to which before long we are all demoted demot-ed slarpK. t may at first sound startling star-tling to assert that there are no fash ions, because everything seems t" lie worn above the ankle and nothing but Mor-kings and shoes below t least 'hat Is the Idea that one getfl from the smart French gatherings, whether it be an affair ni iHlr. or in the fashionable fash-ionable suburb. Seeinc the Parisian rn prriMCnadr what revelation one gets about the much boasted small rn-in h foot and slender ankle' Roth are rare, to tell the truth, but who dares to be truthful where such matters are concerned con-cerned It is quite obvious that the Frenchwoman French-woman Is ompbazing the note of fern Inlty In her most fashionable toilettes. And the exquisite color combinations one sees is grntlfvlne to one's artistic cense. although I have seen some very tartling olor scheme'- 1 imosl any hade is worn or any two D three rolora ran be put together and ru:ide Into one dress. That is 1 matter of taste. Rut the stranco thins: I have noticed is that the mlnorit Oi people In Paris seem to have taste and the rest simplj Copy them, but then that is so in America, I readily admit. When some clever artiste discovers n happy combination and creates a beautiful model from her own productive produc-tive brain there is a perfect scamper by the inass to copy that same Idea. And what woeful results one eventually eventual-ly sees! sulphur shades green ind lokts have some dentees. and then COme the lovely blue v. hlch 'ire in shades 1 1 suit every complexion. Rut. the minority who have ideas upon i ol-or ol-or scheme of their own wear many shades in differenr olors and anythingsimply any-thingsimply anything and everything Is fashionable Tor those who have the gift or will consul) those who are particularly gifted to make ii Bt the wearer's partti ulor personality. There arc continually cropping up odd ways of wearing frills at the throat, new manners of tying the sash, new ways of embroidering stocking, with every possible fish, heist and bird, hut BUCh thincs are of a passing Significance, the main idea in dress is to haV a correct silhouette and Cor reel Mending of shades in the fashioning fashion-ing of the creation. Soft, clinging fabrics with raie beauty beau-ty finish are en evidtnce. (Tiarmeuso and satin souffle, are to be had in countless new shudes. while rare embroideries em-broideries and Chantllty lace play an Important part In the simplest as well is the most elaborate frocks The combination com-bination of lace and embroiders always affords an opportunity for the most exquisite ex-quisite handwork, and there is ample occasion on even a rather simply made gown for the display f some such ornamentation. or-namentation. Although trimmings of all kinds and descriptions are Integral parts of the new fashions, a clOSd study of the models produ od by the leading houses shows thai the graceful "ligpe" is obligatory and that the trimmings trim-mings preferably conform to tins edict The draping of the lace tunic can only be successfully achieved when good lines are given and the manipulation of the folds are arranged with s-kiil so as not to "cut the figure " l ? v gown which achieved a grand sue . . h.ii, cent smart gathering Is an exceedingly charming evening gown made of black cbsrnieuse, arranged with rather ;i long pointed fish-tail train, over the June tell a full tunic of Blmy black Obantilly lace, hemmed with tin cut jet beads while the fragile little waist was of black tulle, mounted over needle run hu e The notable feature of the scheme as the licit of ribbon velvet, carried out In Bakst oorings of green-a cold shade and ;i dull red. above Which one of those effective upstanding frills of tulle occurred. The ends of the celn-ture celn-ture were finished ;.t the left side with a quaint little wreath of bead work and penileloxue of the same. Another gown well worth chronicling worn at a hotel dance was a perfectly adorable dnnee frock, which reflected one of the fashionable Parisian decrees bj being expressed in souplp taffeta. The shade for it was shot taffeta was absolutely that of an opnl, to wh'i h was toned an eggshell blue chiffon for the corsage, that was finished around the V-shape de'olletage with tiny gold beads The skirt was extremely simple, sim-ple, the one side only caught up in a slitjht bouffant drapery, a raveled till he of the taffeta outlining the hem. The skirt was pulled under the celn-turo celn-turo on to the corsage in a delightful manner, and on one side n supremely original touch was given by the simple sim-ple Fa Fram e i ose posed directly up the center back The frock, although of a marked simplicity, expressed the most consummate taste. The capture of the popular fancy by the long tunic frocks in all materials frnelle and dainty nets and mousso-lines, mousso-lines, as well as silks and crepes, should not blind the woman w ho wishes wish-es to acquire a wardrobe that will be satisfactory until the late autumn to the fact that the flounced costume Is not only extremely attractive, but also extremely fashionable and will continue contin-ue to be for some time to come The flounces are of different width or are uniform, as the figure of the wearer requires. Frilled skirts of lace or pleated tulle are edged along the hems with rucblngfl or simply With a ribbon hand, emphasizing the lightness Of the lace and adding a pretty note of contrast con-trast A charming model with two uniform frills is shown in Fig. 1 The draped skiit is In a deep shade of olive green velour with white taffeta corsage cor-sage and flounces The waist la trimmed trim-med with an upstanding frill of cream dotted net and white china button trim the new shaped girdle. A charmingly piquant touch is given to flounced frocks by edging the flounces with black tulle With a white taffeta gown this makes a very effective garniture. The fashion of jackets with long floating tails over a skirt narrowed he-low he-low shares the favor of French women with the fashiou of boleros elongated at the back and worn with a tunic skirt enlarging the amplitude of the silhouette above the hips An idea for a basque bodice is illustrated illus-trated in Fig. 2. These corsages to be quite "chic" should not fit c losely, and should be slightly draped. It is especially espe-cially important that they should not ac cntuate the waist, but rather let it be indicated somewhat low. The costume depleted In the sketch is fashioned of a soft midnight blue taffeta, and the draped waistcoat Is In the same shade of blue with a pretty pret-ty printed floral design and fastened with buttons which carry out the color scheme of the flowers. The embroidery embroid-ery on the waist is in a somewhat lighter shade of blue with threads of gold. Quite a new effect for a draped sleeve is shown In this costume. A full length sleeve which stauds away from the arm is drawn up in gathers under a bias fold of the same silk. 'I he ensemble of this toilette is both elegant and practical, and it Is a style of gown the Parisian likes to wear of an afternoon on a promenade in the Rois. The combination of plain and printed taffeta makes deliehtful afternoon after-noon toilettes for the promenade or for the races, thanks to the free and fanciful fanci-ful waj in which they are desicned. On Sunday at Auteull the gowns are 1" ''' "TT tailor made now only in name; in them can be 1 i erned the influence of the dressmaker with a decided feminine In line with the season's devotion to j capes one of the most novel of this year s wraps Is shown in Fig. 3 The toilette i-; a Btud in blac k and white. A soft white satin is employed for tin modified Court mantle, and the epaulette epau-lette flounce and the cape irsei. 1, edged Witb B narrow black silk fringe. The cape, which hang"? In ralhcr sUT folds from a shaped yoke, Is topped with a quaint frilled collar which Is curved to n point nt ne side and stands out In n shape that reminds oni j forcibly of the tUer lily. The cape I lined with black satin To show tho relation of the wrap to the COStUlUC the gown in fhi' Instance is fashioned of the same white satin nud DttS a fuji frilled tunic of black silk net with a w Ide border of the satin edged vrith n blai k silk frliis:- An jirtfstlo floral trimming for a dinner din-ner gow n is exemplified in Fig. I Tin gown Is designed for the more formal dinner and tin iredium employed for its construction is sn Ivory white M i harmeuse. The corsage i sbuply soft draping of tulle swathed arbiind the figure and drawn closely in a high walsted frilled skirt which i- bound .around the hips with a wide band i C I sapphire blue velvet. The garland of J Mowers which fail- on only one -ide of the skirt is of pink roses with their at tendanl foliage of forget-me-nots 1 !'" long fish tall train 1 !" of sapphlM ll ! A hat can niake or mar a costume, and great discrimination should be shown in this particular part I 1 of the toilette. A f I |