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Show SjSISH r 1 II ' h ffwoBwis ' ' sssssssssssss ll ' jQKSsSf 1 - j3SssSssnBSBBHc& IBsBHlHHSDr L IOK SIM ss Bin ssr it IBsssBsssmsMB8SfifiWj3flH vfriSi -SSHRbKSBh 5453 Bft sbswmsssbbV sel z 1 sajESHHHgijSsn v jJsSBssbsIsw i'i4v'',''t Asa 'P H .IIOIliiBoB n gsskjSr f When the European war broke out there were seventh. i dr. m, i panics in seventeen distinct Amerl-can Amerl-can circles The banks feared there wouldn't be any money, the hunters feared there wouldn't be any cun-powder, cun-powder, the housewives feared thcry wouldn't bo any sugar, th-i cotton i,Tow erd feared there wouldn't bo uny &hips lo aaul iholr cotton, the society women feared there wouldn't be any fashions, anu all th? ret of the different classes feared they had something to fear. Fearless wid Uncle Sam, however, didn't fear anything. He coined more money, bought more ships, in-ve3tigated in-ve3tigated the sugar hoarding, built warehouses for the cotton, manufactured manu-factured powder for the hunters, and now he ha;- ;:rne ln'o ihe dressmaking dress-making and millinery business and la turning out fashions by the oar-load oar-load fcr the benefit of American women, who for years have hd their fashions shlppe 1 direct fruin the Horse Show in Paris, We were pretty well lixei for tho fall when the war clouds bejjan to thunder across the Atlantic. Fashions Fash-ions are figured out so far in advance ad-vance tho lanhion sheets were well provided. Uut there arc soma of the last minute Ideas that Amerigo Ameri-go can designers will have to decide or; for themselves, and the sudden enango in conditions may make the United States of America the futuro fashion renter of the world unless she gues to sleep and lets the Argentine Argen-tine Republic carry away the honora Xo matter how soon the war blows over, American women will have to depend on Yankee brains to decide on the clothes to wear next spring and for late winter. For the first time sinco the hoop-skirts hoop-skirts were abandoned American women will receive their clothing inspirations in America. American designers will be given an oppoi-tunily oppoi-tunily to work out styles and mod's adapted to the needs of the American Ameri-can woman. And when the war la over perhaps Americans will have made such a success of creating clothes that Paris, delayed In Its rartorial development, will turn to ihe United States for advice and Inspiration, In-spiration, the ready-to-wear men sax There is no doubt but that the war will have immense effects on the fashions. Military colors and styles will be much In evidence in a few months. The Halkan war changed the fashions of tho world, and so did the Mexican war. How much more will a big European Wat Change the world's fashions, i We have had the militant note i! In our rnidt to a certain extent for some time now. vVhen the fishting In the Balkans ceased, why, the suffragists suf-fragists In London took It up. Always Al-ways somewhere strenuous methods meth-ods seemed bound to be demonstrating demonstrat-ing their effectiveness or their lack of It. We have had the militant cape and the militant hat In tho helmet shape Why not the militant hair-dress hair-dress and the militant comb? All summer we have had veils decorated with tiny rosebuds. Surely cannon balls were more approprite now, with vanity cases of silver pistols filled to overflowing with smokeless powder Beauty spots for the cheek, the kind that women almost inevitably love and men as 6urely dislike, have been of moons and stars and other sentimental kinds. ow, though, what could be more to the moment born than tiny spots In the form of dirigibles and submarines? sub-marines? 1 'Of the last two seasons we havo had clocks and mice and flowera and fruits to add festiveness to our silken hosiery. Now Trill the dernier der-nier crl develop into diminutive battalions bat-talions of soldiers and tiny nurses tending the wounded on fields of ttlel And on slippers Instead of conventional buckle design of meaningless mean-ingless Import, what could be better bet-ter that, a helmet or a shield or s silver rifle of small dimensions'' WILL HAKE WOMAN IOOK LIKL. C.FNEKAJLl And when fashion makers get through with the job, the female of the species will make the averngo ncralisslmo of a South American republic look faded and van by comparison. Even the carriage starters before the hotelg will look as prosaic as policemen in comparison. Tho specialty shops are already getting ready for the craxe. Stocks of helmet hats, tasseled military booLs, gauntlet gloves, vividly colored col-ored capes. Hussar garment fastening fasten-ing and yards of gold lace have been ordered. When they am., the shopkeepers will stage a little war ol their own. But th one redeeming feature or drawback, as you choose, to view It Is the widely announced fact that ihe underskirt will come back into Its own. Skirts will look more like skins and less lik.' cheesecloth Grecian drapery, a ver chic effect, ef-fect, "a tlv shopkeepers, will be shown in a big, stiffly starched skirt with tour or five inches of od -1 a f I'd frmf- around the hot -torn lik.- th' old-iashloned rod plush parlor portieres. Another one of these chic sffocts Is a bandmaster kind of a rcdln-pote. rcdln-pote. A redlnsote. by tho way, Id table d'hoto French for a rldlnc ( coat, or any other coat not ma.ie to ride in. The landmaster effect Is made by looping gold braid back and forth across the chest. This goid-bratd arrangement is expected to be the sure-tiro hit of the season. Heretofore only tho bellboys In the most expensive hotels ho-tels have been able to wear them. Hut tomorrow, or next week, or next month, everybody will be doing do-ing it. But the military fashions have not come Into vogue to a large ox-tent ox-tent as yet. They arc only among the immediate probabilities, and many American di. liners are now working on them Milliners compromise upon both the small and large hats for fall. The colors approved by fashion specialists are black, tcte de mere and Corbeau or midnight blue. KusKian or bottle green and Bordeaux Bor-deaux arc also used. The hat on tho left In illustration Is In tele de nlgre velvet with ,n edging of monkey fur and a butter-II butter-II In tete do nlgTe paradise. Bronzo green velvet composes the hat on the figure at the right. The trimming trim-ming consists of ostrich in the same color and a rose and Its leaves in silver. Tho Eerie Heller set In the center cen-ter Is in a rich gold velvet trimmed - - y0 7TO&RAPH5 ESPECIALLY PtoCD 6Y' PUGOS - VAN OER VO OCT - fVa V UPPER left Showing the Warsaw bodice and waist. Upper right and lower left Two views, showing the military effect of a Combination of the golf cape, Russian blouse and upstanding plume. Lower right Showing the Belgian hat, with drooping plume and the Alsace waist.. 'n black fox, which Is tipped off In yellow. The black velvet sullor has a high mount of gold ostrich. A saucy little four-peaked hat Is on a rest. It has a crown of mid-nlsrht mid-nlsrht blue velvet and a brim trim-mint: trim-mint: of wlnKs. At each corner are butterfly nnt nnae. A small black velvet turban near It Is qnrnllured with leaves and high leaf of corded White Mlk Black velvet and gold la S Is tho combination In the other small illustration RUSSlSn grevn velvet builds the Caroline flebeaux hat. which If mounted with a hlh panache of 'reen ostrich The Scotch cap of blSM k velvet and white satin, with Che ostrich tassel, might make any maid proud to follow the Scotch rend which Is shown In some of the millinery. Prom Argentine gowns of a different differ-ent type are betnjr worn. Tho 1880 frock, with its limp though molded corsage fashioned down the front with crochet covered cov-ered buttons, offers real novelty to eyes satiated by the nebulous vagueness vague-ness of the shapeless chiffon blouse Yet the charm of the thin and dell-cAte dell-cAte sheath has not waned, and we find in the alliance of very line sleeves through which the arms can be seen and a bodice of substantial silk a graceful mixture of the twn styles. Pure white tulle sleeves brac leted with grape preen crepe at the wrist appear In conjunction with corsage of the darkest marine blue taffi ia which is continued rdow the waist In Uie old fashioned princess man ner, and there met with a swathed belt of the same silk, lielow the sash falls a long tunic of pleated ;rrapo green crepe, and below again Ls seen a taffeta skirt. Taffetas and crepe, chiffon and tulle, how Indefatigably they have played their parts in the season's repertory! Now arrives the moment for fresh surprises, which shall tide us over the weeks that are to come before the early autumn novelties are announced Fine velveL as fr.i-Mlc is chiffon, trimmed with fur, though it can only be regarded as a sensation, has been seen. Very dull black crepe de chino, too. Is being brought forward, for-ward, with trimmings to match in the form of trails of flowers and folhure standing out from the somber som-ber background and marking the outline of the shoulder M1LLI.VKRY SHOWS Ml MTAR Y EFFE t TN . The military effect in inlllin ry is already noticed. Millinery Is one of the l est mediums me-diums through which to display these effects, with the possible i -ccption of suits, or the trotteur as many term these charming day costumes cos-tumes Notwithstanding the prevalence of the style influem e of the wide brimmed hats of Gainsborough and sailor shapes, which are being introduced in-troduced with a great degree of buc-ces. buc-ces. the smaller hat is In no n displaced from its very str.in-: position posi-tion among the modes ofr fall wear. It is becoming mot Interestingly novel, as It appears in a wide rango of effectively designed models. Nono are more generally becoming becom-ing than the trlcorne shapes, and although this stvle of hat ha- bei D worn for a greater number of si sons than one cares to remember, perhaps. It has a faculty of adjusting adjust-ing Its Jaunty outlines very atiu- lively to the modish requirements of the moment, giving it an alto-gether alto-gether new outline, but retaining a familiar appearance In spite of it alL So it is now the medium for ex-pression ex-pression In cockaded attractiveness of the trlcorne a la mllltalre. Double rows of old gold soutache are placed midway of the high up-turned up-turned brim, which Is edged with gold -olored satin, and in front ls nipped in at s charming angle In order to enclose a rosetted chou of the satin, which cups the clumped ! coo, feathers In position. These are cut to form a good looking I iridescent cockade, which H supplies the hat with one of Its most H distinctive style notes. Another point Is the broad, flatly rolled back vH brim at the back, strongly sug- LfH gestive of the Napoleonic chapeau H of ancient date and lineage, but In-terestinuly In-terestinuly patriotic In character. A Biibbor Tired City. At last the tired nerves of the J city dwellers are to bo relieved of H the incesant din and clatter of city streets, which, according to our H nerve specialists, are partially re-sponsible re-sponsible for the increasing Insanity rate of our cities. Rubber is to re- H place brick, stone and asphalt as H the paving of future cities, accord- H ing to the prediction of Sir Henry H Blake In opening the fourth Inter- H national rubber exhibition In Lon- H dOU. Advances in tho production and manufacture of the product H during the past three years have H been so great as to bring within the H f realltj this Utopian sug- H ! H At the London exhibition every-thing every-thing possible was made of rubber. One entire room was completely eH furnished in rubber. The walls were covered with it. skilfully dls- I H guise d as w ill paper, the pictures ' H were mounted in rubber frames; H even the carpets were of the same B all-conquering material. Tables, H i heirs, blotters, inkst mds, paper H weights. Istter racks, penholders. Were of rubber, wlill I the electric light fixtures were of vulcanite. H Dainty curtains hung at the wind- H even these were of rubber nun;,' on rubber rings, suspended on H a rubber Outside the hall, where the exhlbl- H tlon Was held, a tennis court fH made of rubber, for which ls claim- H 'h Pi... t pi-rf'ei-t results yet at- H tained for the game. Its resilience the balls tho rebound of bil- H Hard cushlona After witnessing an H exhibition match on the court, tho rubber growers and manufacturers attending were Invited to a lunch- H eon. where again everything but the food even to the menu cards H was of H M |