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Show I Polish Effects 1 in Paris Gowns Ha Suffering Poland has furnished tlto Hi Paris dressmqkor with her Inspiration Hi for tlio fashions of this full and the HJ joining winter, according to n Paris MB fashion correspondent From this war- Hi racked, poverty-stricken country has Hi jcorae the lead for tlio luxury of tlio I world. It Is not tho Poland of today I that Is dominating, hut tho Poland of Hi ancient glory which kept step with HJ France In licr progress townrd clvlllza- B "on. HE Many missions havo gono from HI Franco Into Poland, nnd each group IB Iirb returned Impressed by her pnthos HJ and her benuty. These missions havo HJ had a bearing on present-day fashions, HI fell of .which nro of tho Itcnalssanco BJ period, touched with tho Polish In- HJ luence. BV Tlio Pollsh-nenalssanco Influence Is HJ a transforming ono becnusa prnc,- Hi tlcally every part of the dress has Bb been touched. Sleeves have been made Hi larger and In fancy style, both open Hi and with under sleeves. Collars havo Ha heightened and have grown very lm- Hi portant looking. Tho wnlstltno has Bl dropped sovernl Inches. Tlio skirt has Hi lengthened and taken on a flare, so HJI this movement Is nlmost revolutionary. BJJ Theso styles have great dignity HJj and clcganco. They call for the use Bh of rich materials of heavy weight. HJj Trimmings nro heavy In tho form of Bh big cabuchons, nail heads and henvy Ha embroideries that stand out from tho HI background. The goldsmith's trade HB whs at Its zenith during this period HB and the costumes of tho nobility were BB adorned with real and scml-preclous HB jewels and ornamented with hammered BB gold and silver. Today all of these BB effects aro being Imitated with great BB success. BB Quilted Velvet Modal. . BH Such fringes ns nro used are heavy, BB being mado of lacet, chenljlo" nnd' BB strings of large bends Instead of the BB fine silk strand of modern times. BB Thero Is a now Una of quilted ma- BB terlals brought out by Itndlcr, which BH works tip wonderfully In these Polish- HB Renaissance models. Ul One of tho most striking examples BB of the Polish styles Is tho model BB "named KlJIuskt. mado by Jean Patou. BB It Is of Rodlcr's Qlockl, a nullted HB velvet, the quilting being done In gold HH thread. It Is trimmed with black BH Persian lamb fur nnd has hammered BH atccl nail head embroidery on tho un- HB derslccvo and n heavily Jeweled girdle BH worn nt a low waistline. The model HH tiolcls the kcynoto of much thnt Is now HH and Interesting In forthcoming fashion HH for nutmun and winter. HH In common with ntuny other of this HH season's tailored dresses, It shows a HH hlqh mufntng collar. Persian lamb wns HH chosen for It, nnd tho same fur trims HH the sleeves and forms bands down HH cither side. This nld-fnshloned fur HH also Is having n renaissance and will HH be one of the mast fashlouabla furs HH this winter. Black Persian Inmb Is HH extensively used as a trimming. HH , Copies of this dress linvo been mado HH with the high muflllng collar of cloth MB embroidered In hand effect or entirely mHI covered with embroidery. It also lias HH been worked out In cloth fringed with HH monkey fur. HH Asldo from emphasizing tho Polish HI blouse In tailored suits, Patou shows HH three-quarters and seven-eighths length BBj tailored suit coats with wide flaring BH circular cut fullness. Many of these HU show the low Mousing wnlstllno or BB low belted waistlines of tho middle BB ages and tlio Ilcnnlssnnco period. From HH an Inspirational standpoint -In design BH tlio Polish peasant dress and tho HH Itnllnn Itennlssiinco court costumes of HB about tho Sixteenth and Seventeenth HH centues havo furnished most of HB Pntou's Ideas, BBJ The ltenalssanca Is strongly pre dominant In tho Hlecvo effects of both dresses nnd mantles. He makes tho wldo flowing und bell shaped sleeve, often accompanied by nn undor sleevo of brilliant contrasting color. New nnd Interesting garments show a combination of cloth und fur. Ono model from Mndelolnn of Mndelnlnn Is developed In perllnlnc, Rodlcr's new material. In n deep pumpkin shado trimmed with Hudson seal, A tailored suit Is also from Madeleine ct Madeleine. For It they have selected perforated broadcloth and have worked It out In tho new bcltlcss coat effect. Practically every Important dressmaker dress-maker In Paris Is using perforated broadcloth as n novelty. It Is often underlaid with a contrasting color, .sVSlBlVSbto. mf jfthrVrkjw iL"?lja fTK- 1 IT One-Plece Dress of Gray Broadcloth With Waist Portion of Red and Steel Metallic Cloth. as In this Instance where brown crepe de chine Is used, the crepe do chine exactly matching tho color of tho fur, which Is brawn monkey skin. The One-Pleco Dress. A simple stylo of one-piece dress designed to bo worn under a fur coat Is developed In n gray broadcloth, the, skirt being of tho cloth and tho bodice of a mixed metallic material showing a reflection of red and steel. Handsome Hand-some steel buttons fasten tho collar and ono sldo of tho bodice. A three-quarter three-quarter length gray squirrel coat wni made to accompany this frock. It is one of Madelelno et Madeleine' models. Tho same house also shows among their new things n popular cloth street dress mado of vclnurj de tnlna In n beautiful shade of beige trimmed with nppllquo rounds of brown satin and having a high fur collar' and fur cuffs. A beautiful ten gown or negligee, whether It bo for formal op Informal wear, Is denr to tho heart of every woman. This type of garment follows tho lead of dresses. |