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Show 19 in RUj, n r i i i i i """ IJ Styles in New J Gowns in Paris II n . . mm fi ,t H - Silhouette to Remain Same as n It Has Been for Some II' Time Past. m I VARIOUS FORMS OF TRIMMING M(f Bhaplnui of Necklines and Waistlines, 1.' Draplngs of Skirts, Shaping of I' I Bodices, Among Fine Points j J of Finished Outfit. 1. Two gowns one from Lnnvln nnd ' tno from Worth show fiomuthliig of I . Iho stylo alms of tliu coming senson. B Paris says that, with devious vnrlu- m (tons to prove tho rule, tho sllhouctto M. shall remain virtually the sumo ns It H tins been for homo tlmo past. It Is to QjE tho details of formation and construe- D lion that tho artlMs In dress nro bend' M' Ing tho utmost of their talent. Thero En seems to bo no end, writes n fashion H) correspondent, to tho new forma of Hj trimming, tho novel shapings of neck- H, lines und waistlines, tho droplngs of HJt iklrts, tlio shaping of bodices, tho BB bandlltiR of laco and tho general limine R8l f all tho flno points which go to make mi ip a finished gown. UK Wlillo tho Parisians nro generally HJ ronsldcred to bo nt tho lowest ebb of H" Ihclr art when handling tho making of Iffi lults, still In tho ono which Worth has M designed thero Is every sign of all that Hi Is to bo desired. Tlio skirt Is long nnd R full enough In Its width to mako It II romfortnblo for walking purposes. Tho HL pcplum exhibits a slightly moro uhtind- B int tendency, which gives It tho proper HE iwlng nbovo tho lino of tho skirt. The HE iralstllno Is long, reaching toward tho Hjj hips, and there It Is further augmented HE y tucks that are Interestingly grouped. HJ Tho fur Is not too lavishly used nnd BmC mi Showing new "Tallleur" by Worth. Hi Fur serves to accentuate thj line and HI add to color combination. HI still It serves to nccentunto tho lino mm und to ndd to tho color cnmblnntlon, HI which, Itf this Instance, Is an untliitio HI green velvety cloth with black fur, Tho H sleeves nro an Interesting feature of Hi thts not Btrlctly tnllored suit, for they Hi spread open slightly nt tho wrists und ml allow tho trimming to take Its way up HI Brocades are Popular ' Hjlj, Many brocades nro seen among tho Hffll newest evening gowns, und thoso nio mm draped always at n now angle and In HH n new wuy. Generally speaking, It Is HJH said that tho skirts of evening gowns IHBt' uro longer, but hero n strunro brenklng rHBK of tho rulo occurs, for tunny of them Km nro long nt ono side nnd shorter than DBV over nt tho other, whllo others nro so IRA. constructed that tho front nnd back JHBT vie with each other In unevenness of jHjW length. For tho broendes thero Is no HI trimming. They nro enough In them- HH solves, and ns tho materials Increuxe HH In beauty und richness, so do tho do- HJtOi ' signs,, until tho whole effect Is some- Hl thing to wonder at. A draped evening HJI sown Is mndo of tho heaviest or black HHJ satin nnd Is held about tho figure In BH Hweeplng curves. IHB Luce for evening gowns Is quite the HH thing. A laco evening gown Is mndo WHj with tiers of flouucos for tho skirt, H nnd with n low hacked Inccy bodice WfiSm Slaving only suggestions of short und I jaw lncey sleovos. Tho lace Is black anil fnl 1s rondo over heavy black satin; then uW' tinder tho flno meshes somowhero fit1 nbout tho hodlco n foldid, draped mmmmW tho nrm until It npproaches tho elbow, Tlio French people bellovo, nlwayn that n suit which deviates slightly from tho strictly tnllored variety Is much better stylo than the ono which ml-heroH ml-heroH too closely to nil of tho masculine characteristics. They Insist that It Is, In tho end, u more attractively feminine femi-nine thing If It nlwnys keeps In mind tho fact that It Is to bo worn by n woman. And surely their suits remnln ns pructlcnl ns ours, which must bo moro closely tltted, moro hnrdy tnllored. tnll-ored. In some wnys they tuny bo worn for n greater length of time, for the unovcniiess of their design allows some slight Imperfections to exist without being too broadly visible. As for tho Parisian Idea of nil Hint Is lovely In woman's attire, there Is tho little l.nuvlr. model for pertinent comparison. That bus nil the softness, transparency nnd grnce that they consider con-sider essentials of a woman's gowning. The materials aro black tuffota and tulle, and the little tlowors which nre scattered carelessly over the surface of the tulle overdress nro made of cleverly twitted pieces of tho tnffetn with golden centers. No, thero Is nothing noth-ing decidedly new about this charmingly charm-ingly simple frock, hut Its character Is flno nnd Its tone Is ono f bounty In nil that tho French seem to bo demanding de-manding for n standard. Muc'i laco continues to bo seen on tho dresses that hnvo been exhibited nt tho Parisian races, where nil tho style tendencies of tho senson to comn nro put forwnrd. Ono of tho newest dresses seen nt this time had a foundation founda-tion of figured silk mndo In chemlso fushlon, with quite short sleeves nnd a rounded neck. Thero wns n Inco capo over tho hack nnd a Inco underskirt thnt showed for n space of nbout (lvo Inches beneath tho silk hem of tho gown. It wns n graceful thing, with tho strnlghtest of sllhouctto lines, but with tho nlrlness nnd floating quality that lace gives. Chemise Dress Holdo Own. Tho chemlso dress, Indeed, holds It own In a most rctnnrknhlo wny. Those who nro returning from Paris say that nothing elso can be seen on tho boulevards. boule-vards. Sometimes they nro embroidered embroid-ered over every Inch of tho surfneo that shows, sometimes they uro merely mere-ly trimmed with Inconspicuous though cleverly designed rows of embroidered stitching, sometimes the embroidery displays Itself In solidly worked bands of bright colorings, nnd, again, the chemise frock Is mndo of simple, plainly woven nnd plnlnly colored silk or sntln thnt has nothing but Its lino Its nrtlstlc und studied line to recommend rec-ommend It for more than passing attention. at-tention. A favorite method of embroidering embroid-ering tho chemlso frock Is to curry tho stitching (hand stltrhlncs they must bo to bo right) from tho hem of tho gown to tho hip lino nnd then to allow tho rest of tho gown to remnln plain nnd unadorned, with only n string belt to suggest tho plnco whero a wnlsttlno might bo loented. Tho cape, or some vnrlntlon of tho cape. Is still popular among tho Parisians. Pa-risians. Tho cuts of these enpes nro ns diversified us tho trimmings of tho chemise frocks, hut nlwnys they re-tain re-tain the mine lines straight, except for n place nt the front whero they nro hugged nbout tho figure. A few of the newer enpes hnvo sort of blousy tops with skirt section Joined to them down about the legs or quite under tho hips. These, with their collnrs of fur, or with furry edgings, nro tho most gruceful of outer coverings. Kvenlng frocks cnntlnuo to no draped nnd draped und then drnped nguln. A Parisian designer recognizes no Inw In theso her noblest works of nrt. lint she regards tho figure ,11 nil whnt Is best suited to It. Souio of the results ir i more perfect thnn others; u few hnvo positive marks of genius. length of cloth of gold Is arranged with subtle deftness. There Is n Ir.co train, too, which Is attached nt tho rather high uulstlluo und allowed to swing free of the rest of the frock until It sweeps for u mutter of n foot or so upon tho floor. I.nco nnd cloth of gold or cloth of silver Is n very sumptuous nnd popular popu-lar combination umong tho Parisians. The draping of Inco over this shimmering, shim-mering, metal foundation Is charming, nnd nothing bus over been better suit ed to the purposes of evening wear. Tho French lints of tho senson nro again low nnd tight, hugging tho head, so that tho lenst of tho coiffure shows. After the genernl close nnd clinging lines of the lints hnvo hem estnbllshed then they nro subject to all sorts of fnnclos goln- up Into tho nlr or out Into the broozo on either sldo or down nt hack, with a long sweep of feathers feath-ers over tho lines of tho nock nnd shouldors. |