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Show SEPTEMUER TIIE SUNDAY EXAMINER: OGDEN. UTAH. SUNDAY MORNING, Xn- 1G 1900. - Tr&j 4. wa M JMJ JZALTZUtr UA1ZL&l27 TStje jr&ezrtsJSAZ. t&z The Waistcoat Eton An Acceptable in New Guise. . elty. la tha models that ara bring prepared for tka mmlng aeaaoa aw aid friead. the Eton Jacket, presents Itarif la many aew aad level galeae. There kaa bare hardly anything la tka roatar aT fashion that kaa pm. aa Maelf aa aalveraally haramtng aa thla little Jacket. Tall ar abort, trait er alaadar, thla little garment haula Itaalt aril to the showing up of tka Nat pnlata at the wearer. fleveral tinea the wwuld-bfaehloa prep kata hare triad ta anal II fraaa Ha peat at taatage; bat aa flrmly la K died Ip papular faear that It rafarna aeanaa after aeaaoa. aad aaek tlan with anaia petal faatete to met need It anew. The taaeatlallp wart amde that la pit farad premia a direct olra waistcoat added te Ha champ. The material la am at thaae aatla faced bmadelolka abruad they ara termed drap da n nettling la ana of tka reddlafc phin ahadea that ara noag the laieat novelties. The waistcoat, terara farlaga aad cuff ara la banaaa aolorad doth, with a smooth aoada lalak that caatnala wall with the high leataa of thf darker male rial. The mat barft dte awaetkly aad aaagly ta the Moca at the dgarr, the fmata rolled bark la painted revere ta dlapUy the eipanaa at walaltmat The eklrt la arranged with Inverted pleata, ret way aadarnealh around the hip. aa that the aamothaaaa at tka It la net Interfered elrh. P lea tad panda are laaartad balew the knot at latervala, and atrapplnga of eiltrked and bra hied doth aarva far trim-rin- Exclusively designed for that favorite of fashion, tho tall and erectly slender woman, thmo la a delightfully mod lab air to this plain and simple little that cannot fall to win approval from tho fastidious In dress. The material la one of thus mixed mrllona that are ao favored by men's tailors for th fashioning oft plain and business suite for masculine wear, and In tint It shows tho gray tone that are still well in Ihe forefront or tbluga fashionable. The coat own all of Its charming style to the cut. the lines of the figure bring followed exactly and yet without a single hint or onggeotlou nr tightness or even aongncaa la tho It. Tb routre oram provides for a lapover below tha waist line, somewhat after tb faih-loof a man's cutaway root; and thla sum suggestion la followed la tbe arfront, rangement of tb three being rounded off below th walat lla la accord oc with tha shapa which The tha masculine garment preoenta. skirt la cut la seven gores,andtbaarhcentre gore front conspicuously Borrow pleat, overlapping th other with deep and sell stitched down over the hip pressed to flare slightly at tbs foot. tailor-mad- .00 u twazurJEJC a ma ' " - ' 3; a double-lireaite- Mi , V deoltle-hreaalr- g Military Tania llabea Ire Appearaaeo. It mnet be conceded, after all la aald ad doaa, that K la la lha rtoeeiy diiiag atylea that the tailor's art la area at Ita The ful-ge- cream-colore- " Rich Line Autumn Brings the Woolen Tailor-mad- e to the Front-of Colorings- - Braids and Braidings Very Conspicuous -Skirts of Comfortable Walking Lengths. A fasliioua. Simplicity in the Household. Recent Showings Exclude Fussy Effects - A Plea for Simplicity as Being Both Fashionable and Hygienic- - Lingerie and Launderable Effects Shown in the Shops. Jut now. whn all of the ahnpa pntilng thlpgo In order, for the vetoing anTnmn and alnirr tiado la exartlr the tlmo to talk wiih ein-prnprlrtura and Ni.vera aa will a, far comNe-v-iT" the Igiiur.ucc of the ate.-jg- s nrr.aii. Tho mi prosperous of tliuoc bavo apeni the dull that la roln-rul- nt with summer lu ftirrlicn lands. nut forgetting to take a wkrl through aock domestic source of supply aa they kra aunt ro lean open the tbruncli. The Junior mem'-e- r of a famona Hr in if h'i.iat bold let fall a few pawing remark, oi- -r ;l.e dinner UN- They were gleaned and a. golden wi-- ii m v ill. arrlbc, gathered f"r full well ah- - kpw. ihi among peupla of wealth tin. young anl.i'a opinion ua all tit", mutter nf ni.'-'- t li i hoiehn!d decoration i furrilshlnsa I. nhaolutelj law. Hlmplld'r.'' remarked the nrtiat decoIs merely the explosrator, "aliur-Nition of a taste, and nowadays even the meet lately arrived nouveau rlehe baa .wallowed and riigevtcd I he aeeaiuulatlon of "a nine tint fa'-t- . of bigotry ani virtue" whlrk a former eouaiderrd generation armwity to support coy elalm of good taste nr breeding la considered to prove enact the opposite. Tka curio tablea and ra'io raldreta. nMimimenta of uc tineas and mlrac.es r gliding, have been relegated ro the attte, there to awalr a restful of the flsnibunyaut epoch whlcu they signal laei. With them, too, have gnuo th. the aofa pillow, and cnh'ou laic bedapreodv and pillow shams, the and t!e luantcipleie draperies one portlerea which IndMps usable la even the met p1. inly furulabad boma. They bare guaa ta ai.-- i.'uini-aoii-d tho ready-to-wea- r weal attractive beat, raabtaeg that eoma hint ar auggoatlia at mllltaiy Hack that allow for the epring and curves at the llgnra ta ba cleverly brbaght ant, dad where abaolnte and mathematical perfection of every lino and aaam aad fold ara In full view, are thoaa aa which the tailor lavlahra bla beat work, and their aureate In eonoequeac la a foragoaa Aa excellent example of ' the fharaia of aurh etyle la depleted be reelf k. the real fallowed the Hare of tka clearly piling Military funlr. the fronta arraaged with but a tingle dart to that the etratgkt Una which faahhia a Seel a at tlila point la aot latcrfarcd with. The eklrt preoanta broad panda, liberally decorated wild raiding eaerotrd la n enft and 1st goutarhe and ec pa re led bp pleata that ara lltcked down for half Ibrlr length and prraai'd flat to the deep hem. The rwpil-alt- e toarh at drenelneaa la achleied la the little hlrit at a veal front, managed by the appllcatlna of a fancy eiuhnrtdrred edge, uid on a velvet alrlp; Ike coat fastening wlib large hooka aad ryea Imteihly beneath thla Tlia aleevo rarriea out the military Idea In Ha plain ne verily, there being but fulneaa enough at I he tup to bring It well wlihla the llnra of current Tho young housewife la apt to make a fetleh of her household goods; the oiler and more eiperli nerd woman la rather Nora than apt to refer to such aa merely hotnu-jinigotsi. guch a dlfferenee d"- - one little that a cipher, too make lu a panting Bwsqwlnra As AAAofl Kear Ityles. provo Bo many of the tailored style themselves extremely tryhig to lbs overlya slender flfore that It ta a relief to find of design that takes eapoclal cognisance tho need and requirements of lha nnduly llm alatorhood. The custom tailor takes turn them good ears at aach patron, and out smartly by means of an almndanre of but la padding Judiciously distributed; aeetloaa of ovon tho tha smartest shops there ta invariably noma redifficulty la achieving Just th right salt. However, when tho gown Is designed for slander weurera tha extra necessity for padding and inch devices ta obviated; and whatever la necessary la provided for In the deta Illustrated, sign. Buck is tlio gown that u picture which will offer many sugars contbvna to tbe slender alatre who haa lo sider her deficiencies of build when purchasing a costnma. Tha material shows ena of tha new lavender blue many nf tha latest colorings ara la definitely shaded combinations of two hitherto Incompatible tints with a llltla cloth, braided. lu blue, fnr relM at tb front. Tha mat la deeply pleated at tb shoulder seams, affording an easy fulness pleated Into aura the chest, thla fulness a belt that tops a not too full ho squill. Th aleevo repeats thla Idea, Ita aennt fulness bring pleated Into a strapped ruff, edged with braided white doth. Th eklrt to extremely plain, planted la th front, tha pleata caught down for half tlielr length with stitched strap, and the aides and back following circular lines. Elective a. , Nov- keep company alfh Ihe H and Id reiuae dinner, the plnah teagowna and the faded photographs of other and bygone d.iya, "Tlie effect aimed it today la a dignified simplicity. The borne is ri yi'i'icd to be a mirror of the Mate of I t And the allalnment of alraolulrly oceu-paiil- e. byglenle anrroiiitdlnKa la fiindanipi,li I l It all. Nowatlnya tho honao ih.t hae not hardwood floors throughout la not worth hnylng. Tho plitiiiiilng inn.t lie of the eaMMHHl order, ao 'hit any llrile fault or Wet tn tlie pipe, cm I detected and remedied almost lnt.m'ly. ami ail of that expensive cabinet work that formerly aurrooinled the ala. I mvtry lututory and Nuhtuli I nltogethiT none away with. And tlie kitchen la aa the bear! of Ihe home, lit the uoi'.-- s of tbowe of comfurtatile meat! more in in. r the Is extended on tlila tltal part equipment than ever before. walla and flour are tiled, an that the hose ran he turned on and the rntire loom . thoroughly Cleansed In a few ni'iin-iitsThe floor la ailglitly Ineiinnl towards one corner, where there ta a runoff f .r the water, tlila eon net ed with the regul.-.- r waatn pipe from the liour.a"All of the furnlshln.s planned for rmewal. t easy removal and ImUIi aaah and full u rgtb. ere provided la double nets, so tint lbcrr not lie any awkward Interial nf durl-ig tho ri'.-.-n- iT Hundertng. are I'Stiis!:- - d. ee thv l"hl to-- . portiere, Bop-tlmo duet, and requirs t o inu-for ueeesary rleaning, e.nl time -ie Plriu-c- s la taken by ore few. but good, and tt-- e elutterlr op of wall space with ant thing that oni as u deestimated emigbly cried res' pit end sst!filng mi-- rs are t ol toft greens are t in fai'-r- . with and some of the less nhtru.lie and blue t Nu Ihiir a f lints fur reiu-rf. rrcomnseuiled. I oo'-a- r . ,.r es at a! Iowa, ' neel t! at the st.nrg r"d,. : H it and pcacork Uuta Inal a l1l!l..l Hie hrtl.uiitt t'-- toll cipicc.-c-j .f vet gne-,- tn s art of th perlnd are no. of tasle, and llu- retoil against ,uch lias achieved Ha result. A of apae and qulotude Is what 1s most iic,il. in the un tiers borne; and this la priiiinrl'y what th up tn dale d oiHior acta out to Hie ala of the rooms, of course, marks tin- - limitation of ; hut much can he done to secure this rml lu even a limited apace. In Ihe 'Tor etkiiiiiple, take the huiise that we hare reorntly furnleheil for a That It Is young ronple. tl ai of tlie mistress of tho house makes the argument nil 1 lie mors convincing. There Is a hardwood floor, flolshcd In a light cuior; and with simple border In risk key pattern inlrodurlug a darker shade of the aninc wood nil around. Tour medium aiao I'crvh-rugs, tn softened tints iif sga. ara to be thrown on this Poor. The walls and celling are covered wlih a glaxed Kngllah rhlnta that rep-'- l the lust beautifully, the luaterlal drawn across Ihe ceiling In tented fashion lo II. evater. whence hangs an ohl silver lantern. Silvered sconces at Intervals on (lie walla provide for lighting. 'Ti-four windows have plain of net. with tlx tlreck key sillrn done In braid for a bonier, those hanging from a valnniv of carvel coca Iw'a wiwmL Tl led la of brass and onyx, li e and chairs covered with th glazml eh'.nia. an-- l unly Just enough furaliurr lu the rooci tu tnrt the neada of Its oe.'iipant. In many levs wealthy families this room W'liiul he denied scant and lure; hut It In arord with present la entirely nlr.ed as "In f Ihe oidtlme lvdptead and pllluw ehntus. the bed la dressed p:i as It Is used. I' alu Itaea plilow slips, sud letv.iresds nf lightweight dimity tb-ter sometimes tl rerated with a IMval pattern in color v .re the thing, itr s han-Is.oMtfvcl' v apt PS't Is tiv-- l lu the daytime, this removed at ntgl.t, ne means com I'a weight la by BirDaiuata with Its wiraitlk pla-- ii All dnring tho sum tier aoutbs when all Tarls was supposed to ba occupied with lb burning qu. tlca of what was to lio nr not to ba good style for the coming season nno beard a ..rent deal shout the new tllka, their closer weare, their heavier weight and ho-- much th- - leading tailor wrra taken with auch for model purpose. Well, the rat la out of tho bag at last, and vnllal-- lt Is not a silken suit that appear aa Ilia general model, but Just a cloth one. Toth la to ba the thing par cost nine Is conwherever the tailor-mad- e I mrnl cerned. There la nut a wardrobe anywhere that dm- not boast of at least one. although more ofteu two Tho choice are found, wnidtex of the well gowned woman I, nf rourae. (or the latter number. A plain and somewhat severely cut one for morning-- , shopping and the like; and a somewhat more clnlioraie one. corresponding tu the Pari Inn drflnilloB of detul lalllenr, tor afternoons and somewhat dressier occasion. Hot from t!i lightweight mohairs and - tailor-nude- . henrlelUM to the closely woven raoltnua and the lonu-- r coverts, the ant. - finished liroat1cl"liv that come In the moat RiTtb-In-g rolcrs. cloth, both for the gown aad It trim 'in-.- la altogether a la movie. And, spc.iMng of coloring, one must b grateful :hnt gray la. for the oocc, at The aprtng ana early any rale, sue i an overwhelming summer sui'.urity ' r this aliade that It wa a that tlio elcgnalev would dlva'd It enllrely In thrir cslcu-Isrior- s " ,i ituinn ml winter wear. In chiffons ami allied (abric. however It Is still to in i: taln a I'C on fashion' s .ve are not concerning osier; kIIIi that aide of Ihelr survival at prese' i lied. 1.1 : -- It deeper and move romp!x what the tnhton aulliurliies Wclivioc new ihls shro:id In. Iiioslly. will lo t" many, for wlicu me comes to . I the near color card It ra.i glaoee , le .cn I, ediately tl.st there I a red pioii'bd ter Jut ab .1 every p.s !le coloring, alwavari-ccpiii.style sud t):r r- -d h cade. I girl. Kven foi her, though, ih.p Iiyerl art hnx been escrvlaeil. tor tli-- rc ar some of ,h rich dark red that ran ! arlled upon to bring not all of th gold and the hruwn lints In hr in h.i'.r lIon. s'i-- so s measure. least, of the reproach t!) of in roll criming. Several of the new free us display a tendency ta deepaaaa and dauslty of tone which will maka tbam welcosM to all hat the sallow. It It usually only the arcman with clear akin aad good coloring who caa wear any aha da of green at all, aad era aba df'ldea apoa thla vernal tint for her autumn gown aha would better bo very aura, lDdc(d,.hat the last vratlg of Bummer tan ta say nothing at aallcw-nea- a or muddlucaa baa been removed from her akin aad complexion. tint right Brown, from tbs rafu on through a gimut of brilliant copper, terra cottas, Ira then Into a rich aeal tint, I promised a very proinluent place, la nost at III models Imported from Paris and Vltuna a strong leaning to the term rotlu ahadea la plainly evident, tbs rich ness of tlut toned down with n judicious amount at braiding lu black, nod, perhaps, aomo little touch of either a darker tint or of black lu. vrlvet at collar and cuffs tu help out the softening effect. The conspicuously and universally becoming little Eton la luck, with several new fra turr to render Ita return the more welcome. Helling off. n It doet. the beat point of the wearer. It Is do wonder that one return to It, mmoou after aeaaoa. One of It latest manifest tation it lu 'Coujunrtiun with a cd waistcoat of the dlrectolr type. Its Ircnia rolled back In rerrrai to display the broad expanse of contrasting au-la- lt double-breas- uidioriul. tine of those little points whereby Initialed can distinguish between work of Ihe the and a accond-ra- i those same revera. The belter gradt workman employs only the best of uulerinl and finding, and the results do Justice 10 hi work. In aa inexKMislve amt, cheaply put together, the li'l'ullniBgs are likely to bo of rbaap canvas, which creases and crinkles and soon loses It sin pc. The riaisv of trad, however, use a good grade princes haircloth, with a linen warp, aad nlioge'.krr Impervious to dti: . or even to a cod well leg. The advantages of paying fnr this riam of goed cvea tbmqth they are among th nnaeea parts of the wstnnv. Is ebrioua at a glance. Fasti leu authorities hava talked, and at length, nrn tho Empire effect a rant w were to look for la Batman tnndcla Well, ao far. ons mast cm u fea that uh have proven themselves alvseut; quite out of the ruuspleuensly luuuit'g, is it wetw la tha heat tailor taib-- r a first-clas- s Is lu the rail nf made-to-ord- f ahnrt-walatc- d l midra tha waiatllu la poaad at Ita point, and much Is dona to oaiphaala both Ita length aad amndaraaaa. Tha offset referred to has been found far too trying' for general wear. It haa an anfortunate tendency to making tha abouldara seem round aad aran humped and the lines of the figure acorn skaared out of all proportion, to say nothing of grace. A for the new skirts, they ara all at them fuller, and quite a roualderabla proportion display a haircloth stiffening at tha hem. Ho far no conspicuously novel models hnva appeared, and Ihe Hues- - that were established la the late summer seem due to hold oni Into Ihe autumn months Circular skirts. In the higher priced materials, are shows with a silk lining aeaujwd In at the belt and the bom with tha outer doth, eorne Interlining of lightweight but fair stiffening quality being Introduced for anywhere from ala to a doaen Inrhta above tha edge, according to the bright and build of the wearer. Walking skirts Just barely clear tha ground, according to the latest authorities. The eery short aklrt of a aeaaoa or so ago, which permitted the tun of the ankle to bo very plainly seen. Indeed.-araltogether passe; and a nan sensible length for adults, at any rate la lu surresior. Fur dress wear the length la that awkward one that expends several lurbea of material on the floor to get la ooe o way la walking and to make going apolalra a perlloidl procem, ores for tbq very careful and cautious aat-aia- ahort-wnlata- d . Tbe glove manufacturers do not teem to take any stuck In the rumor of long sleeves fur autumn and winter wear, or on, making up elbow they go lid ahinililer lengths and even decorating i tbe and arms of aurb gloves lu count s different atylea. This would arem to lie at least a strong strata showing the trend of fashion In favoe of tbe abort sleeve. Ribbon embroideries make a chirr-lueffect upon tiie gloves Id peart anil oinstlque ahadea of suede, for th suede glove has succmfully ousted the glare fur all evening and dresaf purpose. One the white ghrre glove ao rarely In the haunts of fariiln oowaday that the nearer lays bersrif open to tbe aospl cl"ii .bat she Is but an Interloper, that Im Is uot there aa a matter of right or serv-uel- !e-- s be Mi. Ua Plainly 1 alteredaa.Typo I d foeGca-"- T real For the hustnsw woman, and for th suit that goes to mill and to rarket. an our n res tor fillused to ay. the place of thopa la nothing that ran The coat tho plainly tailored .costume. ao mauy tws and aklrt suit lecila Itself lo fill nlrbre Id so to many and can bo made the wardrobe that It 1a aafo to aaaett Ita The perenulnl. popularity will prov fltiort Hltl comfortable andimartly for fertrued wlieu warmth, and aq cleverly rut that It turue worn hack la fiablonibla revere when open, to undoubtedly tha seot rtrice ra I llliiatrilro general wear. Buoh a on In the accompanying picture, the Hue of tbe figure being followed rlnae'y an.l tnea touch of extra amartnewi afforded lu shaped lapela. The cl vet collar ita aklrt shown tha popntar atyle In debark pirated front, circular aide andfront. Aa sign that repeats that "f the the aklrt la correct for street main me, la an fashioned that It escape the ground all nroimd. added weight liebte given to tjis hem by a facing of velveteen. d double-breeete- d and-wel- l Woolf ea Tollormodca. Although one hears t great deal about the vogue for sllhs for ahtumn wear, and that are especially the new weaves aulted tn heavier, and therefor better tailored stylre than were the chiffon of th springtime, still It la production to be noted that it ta tbe wooltex tai'or-mndtbit Is mat area In tbe pluces where fashion congregate and amart costume abound. Abort and nappy shape area ta lie preferred for Ihe coats, aad eklrt that clear the ground by but 'relar accepted a y the fraction at an Inch attractive for a correct. Decidedly one which youthful wearer ta thl model, effects a clever compromise between be aa we plain and aevere tnllonaede atyle. know It on thl aid of the ocean, and tlie dressier demltallleur mode which obtain In France and, to a lesser extent,a root bx Th though. In England. fuM complement of seams, the hock cut with Inverted underlying plent that afwell bc.ow ford a very Jaunty mines the waistline; while the front fol'ow Ihea hn reigning mode that makri nee of one ruix single dart lu fraM. and thatscam, wrll shoulder clear np to the curved outward over the lut and pinch-IrIn wit the moot flattering effe.1 at the walai. The aleeie ta quite full t the to toji. tapering prettily hc'ow the ellmw at select cuff. end In tbe wrist The aklrt Aswi the pleated front panel, ntth full rippling rireolar ,alda aud a brum' triple ImxpIPat orrery Jog the luck. RraMl.ng, similar in design and Intent lo that ow the coal, to need g |