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Show r - - r-- - - r 3SZ35 W. wj-- ; a j ALL&LACJCJ2ZH1II2 ?i!. . , t PM: ?f " SeenintheFancy Work Shops.1 Ksfi&i Rewee Hi ooire attractlvr this thl the torpedo bnH dmcrlbed a aa was coronotloB braid I which might well It grown euroaatiou. It J graduatad Uk the romuatlun braid from a qnaner of Inch thlckneoa to a firm thread, and aq bo arranged must attractively la dmnr petals and cooveutlonal designa. It h uwat attraetlva combined with lot ao. tachrs In tha new braiding potters, and la also nard with excellent effect la Bocal design doua la flaa xllerw &J2'JteZ&C&J&JJJfCZPJ2ir jrzjtnnojrr itrrT JucrzrvZXszL g Clever Variations of the Seasons Best Japanese Idea in Fall Fashions-Featurof This Year's Lingerie Dress Modes-Th- e laces. Tnbl .. Novelties in Millinery - The Lingerie Hat and the Short Baek Sailor V ? Ln-- ' -s . i M'l mat osd cratm ult effrctlv. The are vary attraetlva a hard wood taMm aud entire luncbeoa aet. th plat tad glara dollle aud center pieces, art writ worth th llttl labor required t (tala them. ummev farelxklifi far baby's mb are mad of flna but heavy line aad trimmed with Torchoo laea. The Uttfe pillow slips show a torchon medallion h tha crater, and sometimes a smallerI a ta dalllou ou each old, and tha edge frill of this asms lac mm tubed with thin Inches la width. Tha eomtat d linen ta likewise Inset with oaa ar bm medallion, edged with th tare MU ita may r may not be lacked t a delicately tinted (Ilk lining. 5! 1 la very marked thla aeaaoa, fluuneliid and rtully I dewrrlng of more comment tban a hac (ae to give It at thla writ ii g. of while and delicate pink, tdu and yellow nets of plala, Ba meah are lUlnty with trlmuiluga af flna whit and mounted aver self vid lac, peed allra of aoft milk. They are th uearrft form of tlia Hngcrla frock la Porta tlilo year. Wbll tho ooiartrot foohlouo or natural-oily- thooo to bo (ecu at th arlcet aummer reanria la the mountain aud alung tha Attaurio roaat where New York' faobluaalilea congregate ta glttcr away th anminer day and Bight la an andleoa rouad of aporta, tea, bridge portico, diaper aud bop, th abopa on th other aad hand afford thr la tha great metnipolta opimrt unity for keeping nhreaot of everything aew la the way of novel tiro. of the aummer hao Th kept worsted - verge and Bne onrelty and Ilia utlluga, puuouio aud telling foahlonalile English luohalra In atraug do tno nil. The wralher of Iba pa at lunulh haa bran toe nnveaaunable for auytlilug lint aolta of ihrae material for otrvet wear, aad aa a coaorqurnca thaa oaiart tinea and plgua suit, alinply oiul omartly tailored Ilk the vrorotedk or trimmed with braiding or applique of bandsoma I area or embroideries, will bar aa anuaually abort oeaoua, for w bov tired of wormed oad are now wearing whlto or light roiored llnena aud pkue to tha oiclualoa of thuao light aamiaer oergea heretofore o popular. Muhalra, la high favor they however, euntlDu or ao attracllv la thl year ouft ollky woavre and ammrt potter ua. Btriklng mivcltlre ta millinery mok their appearaae la rarluMva ohopa ahmg the aveaaa from day to day. IJagerl effect ay particularly attractive, o entirely different are they from what w have hfriint cruolotocd t line one rtotar girl took to wearing her mall (later waoh emlirnldery hat aad all hlg atatera did llkewlre. Htrange haw fiahlona are bora sometimes, lar't III llala with lingerie aad lac rrnwna aad Irghora, chip or aeapulllaa lirltua aad trimmrd with huge botra of lae or are claimed aa Ungerie noveltira, while the laea covered and recited pa liana ar extreme. Indeed. Tb cloche of bell grow larger wHh each ancreedlng week, ae ao It are mo. for It ta no unoanal thing to oeo on of theao ho pea af aueh a alia that when poned tuortly on th elaborately cot (Ted head the edge of th liavk brim touehea th boulder. Thla, of mu roe, rriireoenta tha uwat extrema alu of thla particular ah a pa worn la the moat extreme fashion. The abort front aalloe haa without warning turned Itaelf about and tba huge rtliboa bow of reft ribhna lonpa which one weighted tho wide I lack brim la bow smartly wired nr corded and poard na tha centra float of tha crown, tha wide embroidery olmoat covering the wide front naodliigo. Tha ahlit ta a cuuliluattou of loop brim. Thla uew abort hark aallor hi aa aheec battate. tucked and Inwrted with nn that of other days, and II la becoming nirmw Vs1ihW iroti dfBL iid iia eaparted that thla I the model which embroidery Bonncliig. Thla are of arid will open tha Fall millinery erases. I'rr-el.- eiem-dingl- M if;,'. Among tb - ... X4 cm-pii- a i e n i - i ?! y 'H h prior, . i rib-bo- ntn Dinner Gown of Coleen it Poplin. 4 J.l': 'V I 4 I!; i- Vs! - i :: I ; A Midsummer Street Toilette. All black diaaw gowa are at lhair boat Tha typical mldmmmcr afreet toilette when made af mtriata aoft and tba white toilette, white tailored ault. ll aoft illho. pepllnw lanadowaa ad aaeh fabric, which natn rally adapt while hot, white paranol, gl.rrea and bee lu th plainer null! built on the Uenurlvoa to the mode for evewlng wear. I elreu pop It a. a aoft. line of the Prince Chip and pnoy model., mono Iut clinging. weave, popular ta tha aeaaoa'a range af pique la used qnlte aa much a linen, bur 1a the drearier ault eloliorMc with materia), make tlila gown of prineaao aad braidings, linen Undo flret bruaaoii. It ta really made In two Piece aklrt and bodtro, but ao effectively favor. Heavy Irish crochet applique Joined that It looka ta ba a an pleea make thU two-pirrpony suit, on aiiuple emtnmi . Tba aklrt la tucked aver tha , In llna, quite an elaborata rreatleu nt f aentoa ; rimnluting the cuHnr. triniinlug htp between panel af Nark I oca aptlia edge of the front, the lottoiii of the plique band aud haa twa deep fork, below rhmtore of tlay pta tark between eoat. and the aleeve. likewise the tha hem and aamul lurhea about tha smartly gored short walking aklrt. The baa. Tba demietla bodice, cut rnaad-In- g oatt Wf linen, it la hot natural that la barb and pointed la front, ta a a amort linen paraool aecomponle H. The rimpla tmhy vralnt with almpla trtmmlnan parasol Is tif a finer quality linen than of tba applique, aad abort, very full paff lb stilt. nlBioxt hnnkrterchlrt leave, ahlrred aad banded with tba hire, la fart, and enilmddered la blindvariety, effect and flalahed with a double frill af black on third Ihr way up from thr to ehllfoa. From tha empire la the fernle. two tiny ruacttea of whittip ribthe back depend an empire aaah of black bon belli net on the edge of rx'-ehlffou. Im bUHk glace glovea come Appropriate headgear fur ouch n suitnre.I well up Bader the abort puff, no that none th lingerie oallor of eyelet emhnrfdrry af the arm la vtalbl between tba aleeve trimmed with white taffeta rtblmo aad and tba top of tho glove. An attractive arc white rooe with green follace. The weaaory ta the band of Mark velvet glove are of apun allk. and thin Hole rtbboa a boot tha threat galahwl with a bore are worn with the smart white haw at tha baek af tba arch. pump. &ui:jjrzcwz The Smart ar&zLiicx: Costume. All-Bla- ck Women of Fashion Who Affect the Sombre Hue-SoClothes They Wear -- Their me Millinery and Accessories. At every nitre fashionable got liar lug may lie noticed from two ta twenty women In to feather-tigartied from toe-tiblack, which even nmibaevvant man would never for an Instant mlstaka fur mourning attire. These women aclect thelrfahrlr aa well aa tbelr dreosmakera ao carefully that earh gown, wrap and hat aeeina ta preelaely ault th occasion. Among tha well known women who wear exceedingly mart black coatumea are Mrs. Paul More ton. who Invariably make a dlatlngulabed o pica ranee; Mr.. Hermann Oelrich. who la .lighter than of yore, and Mre. Prea-red- t lAwrenre. who look itunnlnc la whatever ahr may elect to don. Mre. riarencq Morkay occarionolly wear area when hot In moarnlng, and there might ba mentioned a score of ether fashionable women whose beauty of face or figure la beat set out by tha mother deInky kite which Hamlet plored In thn melancholy young princeling's new cloak. For tamiarr tailored rnatnmos there 1a a wide range of (dark material panama, mohair, taffeta, veiling and Hhantuag. voile, made Into walking skirts, plaited or gored or panelled, trimmed with graduated bands, buttons, rtblmna, braid and tuck, aad cutaway or box mats with stitched cellar, cuffs and packet-lapor etnna with rows of rihhon about tha sleeves as well as tha ahouldera and wahnnaita. Flalmrate at reef matnmea designed for chun-attemono recepthma weddings, and the races are of marqntnette, silk, veiling, bordered ar plain rhlffoa cluth, crepe de chine oc China silk. Three are all flevlbta fabric lending Jhcmaelvea readily to the Umpire p h lans-down- do not fade. Summer evening gowna of la nod own, chiffon cloth and tba heavier lacoa are beat foe xfrar at th aeaslde, as they oncceaafnlly wlthataad tha aalt air. Elae-wber- e, chiffon, thin tat and all varlo. tic of net are employed. Valeo mada la the princvM or Empire style. It I well to have two watota with earh aummer dinner gown, as with n high bodies the aklrt may ba wore to an afternoon party. Hummer tb r deml-trglnc- d well-mau- knee-lengt- k trim-mlu- r tsnpt-Ingl- fine matettata ft me-ra- km-n- awn, la. deml-Iralne- d fanhb and dainty handwork nre thorn usbe nets for tiny tots. The atanpltata aad the quaintest and prettiest to this acriiie k rya are those In which th Rttta poke of Bn whit pique frilled wltk a Th edging of Burnt embroidery. or puff which axtaada Into a llttb curtain over tho dimpled reek f tta a protection against tta mall wearer toe tareng ray of MM fiol," to f and thl to tied down to tho href with narrow taring bowed ta the reta back. Ilk thorn which tta re dmafV under tha (mill chin. having com out itraug ipj a dire fabric, tb thl aummer have also takes II wear manufacturer up aad th shop. are now aelltaf hjfb stiff, embroidered collar for wear with lingerie haw or lubat md of Bn pta They sr priced much th ram a , ita Uncus, ranging from We. to tag to the amount of am broidery whkk they carry. ,t tnra-ove- hone Faarlagtlaar . bleu of matcrtal surmount tb lighter, s In th vase of an embroidered net aklrt and bndlc aid long llk Empire coat wltk Toklo aleeveo, collar aad bordering of emit rot de red net. Silk redlngotre ovef ae m parent gowns are exceedingly a mart, and closely follow th line of tb Igure, with aleeve mall at the nnta and flaring widely th elbow. Many have abort, pointed vest, termlaatlng below tb bust with a fall of black Hhgerie Among gowns never meant to he Introduced to wash tub-- are thane of embroidered muslin and dyed Valenciennes, the latter ho wing rows of narrow taffeta ribbon on tha full, aklrt and on tho blonao with It puffed dhow aleeve, or th Jacket which usually has abort mandarin aleeve. Simpler lingerie frock ar of batlata mad with pin tnrka and tar entr dens. I white, save that Inexpensive Freneh tare are frequently anbatllutcd for Vob nrlenitca and Mechlin. In th some clam are the largo and email dotted Swlsac which wear wonderfully well and tea gown are practically of tame material aa are the dlnaer model, which, by Hie way. may he and on line. Any comucreaafnlly ly the tall or ahurt, gown, acamatr Empire or maid ahonld be able petent the fat or lean woman, for the mission of of Hie modern dressmaker or tailor la to to transform a half wore coatnm Into on designed pridnpalty make the figure of ea-customer nppenr ceremony for comfort. net what tt la hut what It ahonld be. Morning frock of Chin (Ilk are InexHome of the fashionable and col. They are mad with pensive materials are In beautiful hint skirt, plaited or tucked and with tliemarlrea. that, made on Empire line, riilrtwalsta. preferably finished with soft they require acatvcly any trimming other collars and cuff. than taffeta or velvet ribbon and a acrap China and pong silk at ala ased of rare lace. When the prince designs for kimono amt matinees, trimmed with are emptied qnantlttra of emhrniderire. tnexpenitve black lar. with beading rua si.k oiqdlqne and lace are used. For Inwith through with rtblion or stance. embroidered or rlato filet, often entr deal of lure. Lawn and mnallna ldeIn the full, sweeping skirts, set In narrow plaits shout tha are made np on almllar lines, and for waist and falling In graceful folds to the the long, acini fitting wrapper dotted fret. The not lac form th ileeve. and embroidered Swta raffle trim the plain materiel and vice vena. th juke and nut Infrequently th bolero The hat ha ever or aurnllce which la then bordered with been conaidered eminently practical as the material of the gown. well a smart, especially I the moderateAn excvllrnt combination In three-piec-e black costume la embroidered Itrua-e- l ly Urge shapes In Kenpolltan. fnnry net an chiffon cloth. Th ahanlnre-l- r straws and chip. Trimmed henvlly with . the handsome feathers, aueh a hat may be plain cloth aklrt ta bloosc has a pointed yoke and deep girdle worn the year round for formal occasions, r IMre-toIof embnddered net and and I often sevu with faro and velvets. real of brussela la deeply bordered A collection of black ostrich or osprey with emhrnklery. Tbo same model may plume W a valnabla asset to aay womhe carrinl out by mihalltiitlng taffeta for an's wardrolir. as the feather rtubruideted net. Sometime the bcark-may be utilised erasoa after o a onmnsev tag which are being displayed to la department and show yrtadse Imat this tint, are aom vary attract Ivwvan tabta ported Bovcltlc In eretouno and hanging. They come la both uhtt and cream roiored backgrounds, and ta moot variety of designs printed la th arttatle color eomUnotlono, oft cool bright ycltara green, rich dahlia redbbluas. and very popular Dutch At th tmmer work reostem when th lorer of fancy noodtawork- - natanltf drifts lu aearrh of new and aovol Idem whkk than ta a clever little cootrivur on may mak for ones self orwblchwrald prov most aoccpUbleaaa pretty present t bra any girl of today. It la a loaf narrow molsomewhat shorter than a gkiv bog,' or allk wltk ly gnd smoothly covered with dainty flowered eretouno aadon fitted a rtbbm strong three long spool wtatrh passes through ayelcta In each rad f tba bos and fastens Bat a th udw tad or bottom. Before tho PoU ere pit In they are wound wltk width of ribbra which one nor t the HngMta. In thb rtboo wiy th (pool rrvolv on th ta taring and ny length of ribbon caa cut off without removing them. cut-oa- . mis, ar J : -- art tha made of mid- - J Fsariaating anmmar It la remarkable how IHtla that la really aaw there la In costuming. Nr effects la millinery aad novelties la ao ccraortra an euntlaaally coating forward, bat eaatuaM effects rtrela araaad those mogca which hava marked tba law lla apaalag. It la surprising, toot what variation ran ba worked rat .rtlh th Jaiwama Man. Drolgaar araai loath ta part with thla Idea which haa ban Iba aoarra af aueh clatar laatilratloa tbroagboat tha aroma, aad It la confidently pradlctrd ana- t that a fall aad wlatar of hole, droodiig ahauldcr aad allag alrarra la Jumper drcaara aad priuevaa and frock la ahead of ua. ' Rut present aaodra art of latercat Just at thla tlaia. Tha ahlrtwalat anlt which Beared as a rireogty la tha aummer wardrobe at yaara la eoaaptuaoualy atweaU Ha plaea aaarpad by tlia ubiquitous Jumper drear wprrrard la a variety of air a aad an tart ala. Noma women Ilka th trtmaaaa of tha rblrtwrlel dma better than tb rimpHHtj of tho Jumper which they argaa aacuen too much of tba auiall mald'a wardrobe, but tb great majority af aar girt, aad matroaa. too, for worn-of all agea arv wearing thla becusiliig Jumper grata fame th jronthfulnvaa aad a Impurity of thla mod. It la a practical and acoaomh-a- l aa wU a a pretty haute. Frocks af other araaoua caa b rae- rafnlly remodelled along tbeaa lines, and blouora which bar gtern tbelr boat daya to tb rompaay of tba arparat aklrt or tailored ault Bad a probawed lift la th gala of gulmpra. Mora tarlaua thaa th matrrtabi which make thaa tlreawa are tba variation of tba mad. While tba prince jumper la attractive It ta, however, by mean ualraruaUy becoming, aad therefnr It la not a popular aa tb baby walat , aad aklrt af which era joined with a . barrow belt of tba material or lac r embroidery trlnualag. Tho earn may ba aald of tho llsgrel few ha thla era era. Women have found that anlraa tb priacraa lingerie frock of ahear. fllmey rottona and linens, tacaa and embroider!, are menatrd over a tight Biting aad carefully board Uulug they fall la Bttlng th flgura amoatbly aa a priaeea drraa rightly should. Tha teadeary toward what might ba teemed a tnpbe vines of laboratio I aery apparent la thla yeari llngeri amd-U- l Bklrta tbnugh clahural with laneta f tacaa and rmbriddeclrm often made entirely af the tar trimming without any llngeri material whatever, ar eat on plain gated llaca and (Imply gathered, pleated or tacked Into tba walat baud. Where the trimming are applied gat la th aklrt they tilt tha form of aad pleating ta th walat aad frlllhp ta thla way gtre tb affect of great walat eta beta lloa. la an drew af thla type th walat ta mada entirely af harrow lac trillion dnllle and center pkna of soft whit tubular hoc lacs a easy and effecdr lilt f raaww aho work. Th lares ore of cot faacy ton oad may b purchased In tea yaid ball. Th pattern are mada ta vartooa ways, aewed and brnidod deeigui earn blood. The work require very Hit stitchery, but demand eonitdenbta aim ty In treatment If on would hare thr re mad es Hn cznrmm Z&LOJCEaa on without monotony. Black roars are also exceedingly smart and do not fide quickly. Humll feat enmporad wholly of repllvM of that nre exotic may be worn with both th tailored or th ceremouloua costume. Black malln bit oou wilt when exposed to the salt tar, trot elsewhere re a delight to the wearer, as they are light of weight aa well aa woudronriy On plainer kata soma exceedbecoming. ingly smart effect are gataed with dyed peacock feather, black velvet aud taffeta ribbon, fringed scarves and hug brilliant Jet buckle. There should b at least twa black suMhades; sue of plain or embroidered taffeta and another of chiffon ar lace. Th glovea, ohor and stocking are, of course. Mack, aad Jewels worn should be diamond, pearl or apsis. A Parisian Lingerie Confection. recA very beautlM lingerie eoatum ognised at the rare a few days aga the bridal gown of one of th kmsrt flet's Easter bride I af sheerest white French mull with Irish crochet appliques end the nest of French hand work embroidery medallion Th creation I th prod set of rarlstaa atelier, n fact apparent In every line and sesm of the gown. It ta n princess model built over s carefully boned foundation of white taffeta, the skirt with It panelling of Is re and embroidery simnlatlng a princess girdle, fronts hang above which th et loose, these fronts made entirely of taro and medallion and edged with Bn taro Th bottom of the skirt ta a pleating erica of tucked raffles eilgod with lace, broken up by the Imrrtlou of targe embroidered medallions surrounded with Irish crochet. A novel touch of enter shoes In the form of palest bine Ixmlsln scrota th hut- Ilk, folded anrpUea-wlse a d.r cy tt rirJiZAirfrziTrjrTr Iln under th Jacket fronts, tens derri tying tho popular empire waistline. ThU Mine line I followed In the sleeve, (mall puffs of tba material elaborately trimmed with Val. Uce showing a tench of th Uua at th elbow. Th hat warn wltk thla costume waa of natural colored with high crown and abbreviated front brim, tho crown handed with pal bln velvet and a Mt of Persian embroidery. A little ta tho left of tb center front th brim was t ticked np dona against tha crown, apparently bold In slngto pink ron at th has place by of a pal ostrich feather. Long loop of bln TO.vvt ribbon covered th hair In tha back and tha nnder brim waa piped with bio velvet. teg-hor- n Dressy Blase ( Stack Taffeta. wardrobe, ns matter Every woman' bow many colored garment It may contain, should boast at least on black Them are always time when a black costnma Is more ta keeping with tho orenston thaa a colored mm, and ana should bo prepared for any emergency, even though on does not Ilk black aa a coatnm color. The separate waist of black taffeta I not only Tory practical bat ta extremely smirt. and may be worn with a aklrt of pla!i black worsted or Ilk. er even a kirt of nnm fancy material, rack tb Must ratios show In this tastanee th material bring a Mack foulard with a large cola spot la white. Tha aklrt la a princess model, the pleats which give It Ita fulness being laid Bat at the walat line and ever the hips with narrow hand of plain black taffeta, tellur stitched and BnUhed with tiny ffllk s In the center Croat. Tha waist la a aurnllce model of chiffon taffeta, the front elaborated with the eyelet embroidery and ouilsche braiding ta GrCek key Tho high cottar honed with pattern. fealberMme and tb rbeinlaeti are f btack rluny. sad th three qnarlera sleeve or rather seven eighth for they Mack eoo-tum- but-ton- almost to the wrist, have a raff effect the braiding which run up tha baek d th arm to tbo elbow, and tha edge d tho sleeve to finished with donbta P I4, Waists of thl Inga of black mouraolln. typ ir moat successful whea built a very light weight allk ar cotta IlnUR boned smoothly to tbo flgar Baby Priaeoas Ltagerlt Elaborated With Lara and Embroidery. Ho elaborate era th llngeri froek d this rammertlma with lac aad tie that vry often a llngeri autere b r al, rack a Baa lawn ar battate,embieM-arWide ployed la tbelr make-ap- i flo Brings with a very drop peritaa y tbo plsls material above the embroidery ased very generally, aid la thl W th necessity of tha plain material byw with. yard U very often dan away . tb aklrt plcts rod the entire upper made of flouncing Inset with two arrow Val. Inrarttoa la Vandyke print and to tba nealloped edge of thU Bw klltmro Is net the lower part of th Inserted tacked, th material fine batUt. Tha walat Joined W aklrt la baby princes fsohlon with a band of embroidery, la an elaborate of taro edging and Insertion tskiw broidery bandings, tha banding th form of sospradaro. Joined back with a irons piece of tho amhf leT are made entirely ary. Th laea frills oa a foundation matching the body af tha Moos. gathered Into a lace frilled tall J embroidery- - A delicately tinted ri of arkrda mada la prince fhUu booed to the fig ora la worn beneath hat gown, et off by a bell abaped whit chip with onder-bribtack ratio, and trimming of Mc vet ribbon and on long aatricb whkk encircle th arown and down aver tha brim to tb tha bark. ar bn ui rrro-tfo- ult hw "" . - |